So I've been hitting up Amazon and my local library for as many books as I can find. There's a lot of great stuff I've learned, mostly about particular technique and situations. But I'm at my wits end trying to find any comprehensive text/book over how to actually design and create patterns. My edition of The Leatherworking Handbook by Valier Michael offers some helpful but overall vague and non-specific advice on the matter that doesn't help me understand anything to a greater degree.
Questions I still don't know the answer to:
How to plan measurements so that stitch lines are easy to incorporate.
How to plan allowances pockets.
Anything about actually planning and designing gussets (what to consider in terms of leather thickness, bends and matching stitches, etc.).
I know that through practice this has started to come somewhat intuitively. But I'm thinking there has to be, somewhere, this also written down. Anyone know of such book(s)?