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MariaMS

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Posts posted by MariaMS


  1. 14 hours ago, gordond said:

    I'm not going to remove the take-up tension mechanism to show details ..but I'm restoring a 7-33 at the moment and this is what it looks like inside behind the discs

    IMG_20220501_142011752_HDR~2.jpg

    those two pics are perfect, exactly what I need.  I couldn't quite see it properly on your earlier image..... thanks heaps!!


  2. On 4/3/2022 at 12:32 AM, gordond said:

    Actually... is your machine a 7-33?...

     

     

    Just wondering if your 7-5 has a spring mechanism that returns the foot forward after is is pulled back by the action of the feed dogs..... the foot has a tiny hole in the back, and then there is the L shaped bit, as if there could be a compression spring on a pin nestled in there to do the job.  Tried a coil spring and it worked great but restricts the movement backward.  A ballpoint pen spring will be the net thing to try, but would like to see pics of what it SHOULD have in that spot...... and does the thread run through there, or should it come from the take up lever through the slot and skip the tab thing?

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  3. I got another step further today - I had trouble with getting the tapered pin that holds the foot in place back in, and just had a thought that maybe I had the presser bar 180 degrees out.... so pulled it around and it went back together perfectly.  I had a friend helping today and we developed a better take up spring.  He also questioned why the foot wasn't travelling the whole distance, and we decided maybe there should be a spring in there too, so the foot can flick forward properly......got all that sorted and wow, we suddenly have perfect stitches!! If anyone has a 7-5, I'd love to see a pic of what the two springs actually look like LOL

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  4. The Singer 7-5 has graduated from the intensive care ward onto her own bench. 2 oak headboards and what looks to be an old steel industrial sewing machine frame that was kicking about in the Engineering shop.  Now I know it will look OK, I'll stick the frame into the electrolysis tank and give it a clean up.  It is a good height for standing up at.  This shows the machine with a single coat of rustoleum flat black.  I'll probably do the frame in the same way, and leave the wood light coloured.

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  5. 1 hour ago, catskin said:

    Plate looks VERY MUCH like the one on my Adler 20-2 see if you can find one of them to try.  I was told that quite a few parts are interchangeable. IF that is true it might get you what you need.  I don't have a spare or would offer it to you.  I could measure if you post measurements and tell you if it is the same.

    Gordond helped me out and sent this (see "Singer 7-33 under restoration for the whole thing - I couldn't change the title, but it shows my rescue of the 7-5).  I'll look up the Adler plate.  This machine takes a 7x1 needle, is that the same as your Adler?

     

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  6. On 4/14/2022 at 10:30 PM, gordond said:

    Correct

     

    Hi I'm still trying to get dimensions for the 7-5 needle plate so I can make one - I asked in a new post but no responses so far...... any chance you would have time to do a measure up and add to a photo?  We managed to make one OK but I think the needle hole was maybe a bit small (1.5mm) and was super close to the edge, which may mean I need to adjust the feed dogs more to the left to get a bit more of a margin so the hole can be a bit bigger.... I ended up breaking the needle as the tip caught the edge.


  7. We managed to get a plate roughed out, but the needle hole looks closer to the inside edge than it should be, which could be to do with the feed dog adjustments.  I noticed today there is a slight slop sideways, so I will have a go at adjusting them slightly further left, which would give more metal between the edge of the plate and the needle hole.  2 questions, what size is the needle hole usually, and does anyone have a plate they could measure up for me?  it would make a repeat plate a bit quicker to make.....


  8. On 4/20/2022 at 8:18 PM, gordond said:

    This is the long arm BUSM#2 housing the complete shuttle.

    It will never be restored to concours condition as it too survived a fire at it's  Owaka Wool shed home.. complete with sooty remnants still in it's nooks and crannies. No signs of frostbite or wind damage..lol!  (I haven't been back to Owaka for 20 years ..Riverton was bad enough ..even colder than minus 15 deg C  blast in Denver)

     

    What a beauty!!  Nice history too.  DO you know of anyone selling needles for the  BUSM #2 machines in New Zealand?  I only have one - it would be great to start using it more often on the various bits of harness in the Livery, but I don't because of the lack of any spares.


  9. 2 hours ago, sandmanred said:

    If it can be dismantled it's possible it can be saved.  Once it's all cleaned up you can better assess the condition.  If there's wear or corrosion severe enough a there's a chance a person with a TIG welder could build up the worn area.  Then recreate the grooves.  Filing is a not out of the question.  I'd look for the triangular shaped files used to sharpen handsaws.  With some clever clamping you could probably guide the file to create uniform spacing in the teeth.

    it isn't the dogs that are the issue, they cleaned up fine..... it is the plate that covers them that I'm wanting to make a new one.  The other was so rusted I thought it couldn't be saved, so cut it off to gain access to the hook assembly.  Rewelding it could be a possibility if I still have the other bits perhaps, currently I only have the ends with the screw holes.


  10. 7 minutes ago, gordond said:

    aaah... now I remember...

    BUSM #2 Shuttles compared..but they both work.. the extra outer piece seen is non adjustable.. hardly a tension spring per se..

    I have seen a few #2 shuttles over the last decade or so and all are missing this piece

     

    IMG_20220420_185851223~3.jpg

    excellent - great to see the inner spring.  I tried ours out today, but the spring has sharp edges rather than rounded - I found it is an issue when the bobbin is fully wound, as the pressure is so high it causes the thread to jam and pull into itself.  I unwound it a layer and it was heaps better, managed to get quite a stretch of a reasonably tensions row of stitches...... as usual forgot to get pics.... will get net time I am up there.


  11. The Singer 7-5 I'm working on had a feed dog plate I thought was past rescuing, so I made up a set from wood.  I'm going to have a try to making one from 3mm MS today but I'm not sure my skills are up to the task..... does anyone happen to have, or the skills to draw up a laser cutting file for these?  I do have my Verniers  to do a measure up if my "drill holes and wear out a few files" approach is a complete failure..... at least this time around I know to get the plate fitting at the screw holes first up, and THEN mark the needle hole!! Then again, maybe I need to beg some lessons on how to use the milling machine.....hmmm that could be a fun learning curve!!

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  12.  

    6 hours ago, gordond said:

    Shuttles are different... BUSM#2 smaller and no inner tensioning spring

     

    Any chance of a pic of the inside of your BUSM#2 shuttle without the bobbin?  I'm wondering if the one I have was retrofitted......Also interesting you threaded the tension holes direct from the bobbin.... the domestic transverse shuttles I've seen go around the bar on the opposite side first as it allows the thread to pull off more evenly..... I admit I haven't used our HM much so haven't tried it threaded that way yet - but interested to know your thoughts as per the pic with orange "threading"

     

    8 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

    I wish I knew more about there but here's a pic of one we have ser#9446 & it has a spring for tension on the shuttle.

    Thanks!! yeah it would be cool to have a database of serial numbers and photos.... but I guess that would be a huge job... any chance of a pic inside the shuttle without the bobbin?

     

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    threading idea.jpg


  13. 1 minute ago, gordond said:

    .think someone did pinpoint the dates via the serial number ...

    Where are the serial numbers?  I did track the brass plaque of the supplier  H Oscar Hewwit to around 1910 via Papers past..... there is also a bit on the BUSM on Wikipedia, so I can add that in too for now.  Ta for your help!!!


  14. The other machine we have is somewhat the worse for wear, having possibly been involved in a fire at some point in it's life...... thoughts on the model, again possibly a Pearson of some type?  I have a feeling I saw a container which could well hold some of the missing pieces, but I hold little hope of getting it back to a working machine.  I will uplift it from the Livery onto my operating table once the Singer 7-5 has a place to sit, and have a closer look.

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  15. Hi all.  We have what I think is a Pearson HM, possibly pre  #6.  The main difference I've noticed is in the shuttle, in that it has a series of open holes and no tension springs except for the one under the bobbin, perhaps to stop the thread loosening off.  Does anyone know which model machine this is, possible date?  Also how the shuttles are threaded?  I was wondering if each hole marks 1/8 decrease in leather thickness?  TIA

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  16. 2 hours ago, suzelle said:

     Any plan on what paint and/or decals might look like?

    for now she has a coat of Rustoleum Flat Black..... and it looks pretty good..... old, but tidy.  She has lost her badge so I wasn't going to add decals either.... none of our sewing machines at the Park have been restored back to looking new.


  17. 31 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

    I honestly never expected that this thing will ever sew again! Congratulations! :huh:

    Assuming needle too far away from hook of needle bar set too high.

    Thanks! I'm still figuring it out - I think it skips on the odd occasion because I still don't have a proper take up spring and the wooden feed  dog plates, which doesn't have a proper needle hole (it is more of an open D) as I misjudged the cut by a fraction.  So the tension fluctuates a little.... when it gets a bit tight, it skips, I'm thinking because the loop it too small for the hook to get through.  The needle bar height is good I think but I can check it in case it has slipped..  It was hectic today with it being Easter and an open day, so hordes of kids all sewing on the hand cranks and domestic treadles and having a huge fun good time.  It will be quieter the next few days so I can have another look at the hook/needle distance. I only have the one size leather point needle at the moment. I didn't want to get them and then find I couldn't get her sewing..... but I'm sure I can get it better as I get to know the machine!!


  18. I've get impatient waiting for stuff to arrive in the mail, so this morning I made a take up spring from a bit of 1.2mm MIG wire.   It actually works - my stitches aren't baggy anymore!! I guess now I need to work out if the thread I'm using is the right size for the needles..... more research coming on. I am so happy to have got this far. The canvas is the same 12 layers of 16 oz.  I'm not sure about leather measurements but it is about 3mm thick.

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