saracita

Just wanted to stop by to say thank you for helping me sort machine options. I got a Consew 226R-1 from a local sail maker and I think it will be fully adequate for my needs.

@kgg Thank you ever so much. This is especially helpful, I had thought maybe those models might be too much in the high-speed category for what I really want, but I'm still trying to confirm whether what a *think* I've learned is actually correct. Great information to be found here, I appreciate it.

Well, the machines the other seamstresses recommend are models that they use, so I presume they have been adequate for their work. I probably really am looking at 3/8" of thickness when it's all pressed together, but 5/8" needed to get it all arranged under the presser foot. @kgg, thanks, this is helpful information and thank you for the links as well. I don't know anything about cylinder bed machines, other than I thought they were meant for curved seams, which these dresses aren't -- it's all flat sewing work, just thick. You would attach the skirt before the zipper, so you're looking at a long seam that runs from the back opening, across the front, to the other back seam, all laid flat -- but with a lot of folds of thickness under the flat seam. I sew everything else (sleeves, side seams, darts, etc.) on an old Riccar, but it doesn't have the punching power or clearance for this thick bodice-to-skirt seam. Definitely not looking for bells or whistles. I would probably use this "new" machine solely for tailoring that bodice/skirt seam and all I need to do is a basic, straight stitch. Backstitch would be nice, but not necessary.

I am all kinds of confused on feed types. I thought that all walking foot machines were this type of multi-action moving the fabric through, but you can see now why I'm here asking questions trying to sort it out. Models recommended to me by other seamstresses who do this kind of work include: Consew 206RB-5 (this one is in the lead for a walking foot option, there are quite a few available, used, in my area) Juki DDL-5550N (with claims that it has 5/8" of clearance) Juki DDL8700 Juki DNU 1541 (which I like but there aren't many around and used prices are high) Juki DU-1181N I'm only considering setups with servo motors (I did manage to learn that much), and I'm not considering ex-school/ex-shop machines. I'm looking for the ones people got for one big project and thought they would use all the time, only to find how much space they take up in the house. Most likely to use a transparent polyester thread or a quilting level thread. Outdoor and sailing threads look like they are beyond what's necessary for this application.

Hello, Leatherworkers! First off I would like to thank you for your sharing your extensive expertise. I read @Wizcrafts' sewing machine thread and have been lurking around this message board for weeks. I've definitely learned more about machine mechanics and specs here than anywhere. I really appreciate the breakdown explaining the various machine types, feeds, walking foot vs add-on foot, etc. I'm a professional seamstress with a market opportunity for alterations in Irish Dance dresses. Think Riverdance. Modern show/competition costumes are constructed with a particular double pleat skirt, with extensive stiffening materials (sometimes plastic or cardboard), on thick fabrics (duck, velvet, heavy satin, sequin, embroidered). This is to create the distinctive flat, sticking-out skirt. The skirt-to-bodice seam easily can be in excess of 1/2" thick. Example of a dress here: https://irishdancedresstoimpress.com/product/dress-11916/ My kids are Irish dancers and since I have done some alterations on their costumes, as well as some friends' costumes (mostly rescues from the damage done by local tailors), I now have many requests. But I can't get that blasted double-pleated skirt-to-bodice seam through my domestic sewing machine. Hence, researching industrial machines. My goodness. I had no idea there were so many possibilities. I asked my group of specialty Irish dance seamstresses what they recommend, but no one comes even close to this group's ability to break down the why's and wherefore's of my options. I'm pretty sure I've narrowed my search to a true walking foot machine with more than 1/2" clearance under the presser foot -- though some of the seamstresses say they are doing fine with high clearance on a regular double-toe foot. Juki was originally recommended to me by a trusted seamstress, but Wiz raves about his Consew machines so much, my horizons have expanded. :-D What I'm hoping for here is maybe to connect with someone with a used machine for sale, a dealer, or any and all advice & guidance the group might be able to offer. I think I will need to buy something used to get me through the upcoming fall seasons and then save up for an "ideal" machine. I know most of my particular craft doesn't apply to leatherworking, but the best mechanical information is here. Perhaps somebody is able to "interpret" my needs, or can point me to a different group that has a closer specialty (but can also explain the mechanical pros and cons). I'm located in Jacksonville, Florida. Thank you very much for reading my message and considering my questions.