Attaching vibram out sole to custom logger boots

[Attaching vibram out sole to custom logger boots]

On 5/21/2024 at 10:24 AM, Mablung said:

Was the surface of the outsole that mated with the midsole roughed?  If it was still smooth, you'll have some adhesion problems.  Sometimes the cement will soak too far into the rough side of the leather, too, preventing good adhesion.  Did you wait until the cement was tacky, no longer wet but no longer totally dry?  Too far toward either end, and it won't adhere properly.

The midsole was roughed, and the midsole was glued to the roughout side. The contact cement was tacky. 

 

I contacted Nicks Boots and they said "It's a rubber midsole, used in our water resistant models. It's about a quarter inch thick."

 

Doing some research resulted in the most likely rubber type is neoprene, being able to adhere well to rubber and leather. 1/4" seems pretty thick to me so I'm going with 1/8".

[Attaching vibram out sole to custom logger boots]

Hey everyone, I made a pair of logger boosts based on Nick boots in Spokane Washington

I used 12 to 14 ounce vegetable, tanned in natural color as the mid sole and I used barge contact cement to glue the sole to the rough out side of the midsole, but I am having adhesion problems and it’s starting to peel back.

 

I vaguely remember in a video of Nick Boots saying that they use a piece of rubber that goes between the leather midsole and the vibram outsole. 
 

looking for any tips on how to get better adhesion!

 

I used the vibram 100 Montagna 2 piece outsole in black

[Cobra 26 thread binding around bobbin shuttle.]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

The thread stub should not be attached to the bobbin latch! Remove it asap. I recommend installing the bobbins backwards to the flow.This keeps the bobbin thread under constant even tension.As for the tightness in the top thread, adjust the check spring to give more slack thread. That is done by rotating the thread check disk assembly to the right on systems like your machine. Loosen the little screw inside its curved slot, then loosen the nut on the front. Turn the disks to the right and lock it back down.

Hi, thank you for the information however I, in my inexperience don’t know all the terms you describe like the thread stub. I followed the video below on the procedure for threading the machine. In the video it instructs to feed the thread from the bobbin, through a slot then to be placed under the bobbin latch. If this is incorrect please let me know

 

https://youtu.be/HV2NDZZq7MM

[Cobra 26 thread binding around bobbin shuttle.]

Hey there, I might not be using the correct terminology so pardon me.

I recently bought a Cobra Class 26 (JUKI 341 Clone). I have an intermittent thread binding issue, notable by its popping/crackling noise when the bound  thread is released and causing the thread to jump back and fray.

I'm running size 138 thread with a 135/16 size 22 Schmetz needle. I've tried adjusting the timing, retarding, advancing and setting it spot on and this issue persists. I've also tried adjusting the bobbin and needle tension. 

This issue occurs all throughout the sewing process, not just in the starting phase. 

 

Any potential solutions would be helpful! I took a video and linked to it below