Toffe

Indeed, the universal truth for tools and musical instruments: (How many I need) = (How many I have) + 1

Thanks again everyone! I took everyone's tips for sharpening the tool better, including stropping by putting polishing compound on a bit of thread, and that definitely helped with some of the issues. The main remaining one is the line in from the edge, which is definitely because of the leg of the beveler digging into the leather, which is because of the angle. From some experimentation, that's an issue I can't get away from with this tool for a single layer of leather. The tool is just too wide (despite being a #1, intended for this thickness of leather or thinner according to the producer). When the leather is laid flat, the best angle I can get is about 30 degrees, maybe even less, as the other leg is then against the flat surface below. I've tried getting some elevation using a steel ruler, the edge of a cutting mat, and/or a square of thick leather I use as a base for punching, but I have insufficent hands to hold everything in place without slipping, so that doesn't work out great. It also doesn't work at all with curved edges. When it's multiple pieces of leather together that I'm bevelling, like bag edges or card holders, or thicker leather like belts, the tool works far better now. However, for all the times I need to treat the edge of a single thickness of leather, which is often for my current projects, I'll need a different tool. The trashy Chinese kit I started with came with a beveler that works thickness-wise, I'll have to see if I can force it to hold an edge until I can get a tool like the one in post #2.

I agree, problem is I can't lean the beveler further away because then it's rolled against the cutting mat and doesn't touch the edge of the leather. I could try using a piece of scrap leather or a ruler underneath to get more elevation. Will sharpen the belever again. I think so, don't think it's possible to do it upside down?

Thanks fredk and SUP for the tool suggestion! And since I was ultimately able to hide the worst bit with the cover, here's the final (minus some more sanding and burnishing) result: Ooooh, that explains the thin metal bar that came with the beveler. Will give that another go. Thanks all for the tips about stropping, and sorry for misusing the terminology - I do have a strop, leather on a wood paddle with a polishing compound, that I use after fine-grit sandpaper or the whetstone (depending on what tool I'm trying and failing to sharpen). It works on straight edges but won't get both sides of the beveler. I'll try Mablung's tip of scrap thread with polishing compound later on, and cardboard perhaps. I have gone through lots of guides and videos about sharpening but have never gotten an edge that I'm fully happy with. I'll keep trying then. In general all the blades I've got here ultimately use low-quality steel and won't hold an extremely keen edge under any conditions, but the beveler at the very least is decent carbon steel and is worth giving another go, and another, and another...

Hello all! I've been trying my hand at leatherworking (after years in model ship building) for a little over a year now. I started out with a cheap large tool kit and have been slowly substituting the tools I use most (or use less often but need to be better quality) for better ones. That's made a huge difference for e.g. stitching (Japanese French-style prickers, a much better diamond awl (can't find a flat one), better needles and thread...), and I'm happy with the quality of leather I have available here. My results are at the point where people I'm not related to are asking for commissions. HOWEVER, my edge finishing, particularly edge beveling, actually seems to be getting worse over time. I paid too much for a proper Japanese edge beveler (I'm currently in Brazil, so for anything not made locally or in China, triple the price due to shipping and import duties), #1 for 1-1.4mm leather, it came sharpened plus I've stropped it with the sorta-sandpaper that came with it, and I'm following the usage instructions plus guides I've seen online. The moment the beveler touches a project, the project turns to trash. I'm careful to hold the leather flat, either carefully with the edge of my hand, or with a steel ruler if I'm beveling a straight edge. I only work dry leather, all veg tan, 1-1.4mm thick, sanded (low grit sandpaper, should get around to buying higher grit too), normally before stitching. With a light touch, nothing happens until the beveler gouges a chunk out. With a stronger touch, I get the string of edge leather coming out the back of the beveller, but am left with a very noticeable line in from the edge where the side of the beveler has touched the leather - this can't be avoided since I can't twist the beveler any further away from the topside short of beveling along the edge of a table (which would have its own problems). Typically I get a sawtooth pattern along the bevelled edge this way as well, as the beveller catches on the leather surface and gouges bit after bit. If I make multiple soft passes, the edge typically just looks like it's been gnawed at by an elderly cat. Is this: - My incompetence? - Tools not sharp enough (and I don't seem to ever be able to get anything sharp enough - my half moon knife is practically useless now no matter what I do with whetstone&strop)? - Tools wrong size or type? (the ones I had from the kit are multiple sizes, but give the same issues as described but to a greater degree) - Wrong technique? - Wrong leather? - Something else? Could there even be a different technique or tool I could be using to avoid beveling at all? For example, I realised I hate burnishing by hand, so I got a burnishing attachment for my dremel-ish tool, and that works well.