Bosko90

This one doesn't have a lock screw, but I know yes, some have it. I tightened it practically all the way and there's no difference. Do you mean this gap? Hmm, maybe the spring is really bended. That must be flush with housing?

One more video. Focus is little bad it is hard to have phone in one hand and spining machine.

Ok, that's what's missing. But I don't think there should be any problems with that, or? I didn't check the timing specifically because it's grab thread, and I don't even know the exact position for this machine, what it should be. There is one thing that is still wrong and I can't fix it, that's the only thing I suspect could be wrong. The hook goes too close to the needle and it slides on it. I recently got about 40 needles, all of which are worn down to the point where they have a bit of a flat surface on the side. The needle I'm trying with is new. I tried to move the entire lower system, but it was unsuccessful, probably the corrosion was too strong.

Hmm through the eye? No, but it would be possible for the needle to go through the thread. I have a friend who has an Adler 4-2, at the first opportunity, we will try it with his shuttlehook. ok was uploaded to yt. And here are some photos. In the photo you can see the moment when the lower thread becomes very tight and the thread is pulled out of the bobbin. This is the moment when the needle is in the completely lower position. At that time, the upper thread is completely relaxed and does not affect the lower one. In the second photo, the appearance of the upper thread at the same moment. In the last picture we see how a slight loop is made on the lower thread. This is at the moment when the upper thread starts to pull upwards. It pulls until it uses up this excess thread. And this is at the moment when it already looks out of the 2mm leather. This way, the lower thread offers absolutely no resistance to pulling, no matter how tight the tension screw is. And as I mentioned before, if I lightly press this loop against the bobbin case with my finger to hold it in place, it makes a nice stitch.

Both are fine. I feel like it works properly, because I can adjust it from completely loose to so tight that I almost cut my fingers when I pull the thread. And on last time I trying to sew, I had it so tight, and there was absolutely no effect on the stitch. As I said, the lower thread is somehow pulled out so far that when the upper thread lifts it, it goes up so far that it peeks over 2mm of leather. If I hold it down with my finger slightly by pressing it against the bobbin case at the moment the upper thread starts to pull, it makes a nice stitch.

Here needle is at the lowest point, uper thread is lose and check spring have no function at that moment. If, at the moment it starts to pull the thread up, I lightly press the lower thread, which is too much, with my finger, it makes a good stitch.

Sadly no effect when I tighten check sping.

@Wizcrafts I loosened this spring, hoping it would help. so can I tighten it? I'll try. @Constabulary I used thread 20 (138) and needle 160 LR (23). I'll take a picture or video if anything shows up. 20250307_123416_1_1.mp4 When it goes counterclockwise (needle goes down) it pulls too much thread out of the bobbin. When it goes clockwise (needle goes up) the lower thread becomes loose and the upper thread easily pulls it so far that it peeks out at the top of the leather.

I don't know why my topic disappeared, so I'm writing again. So my problem is: I got realy niece singer 45k5. When I try to sew, upper thread pull bottom one to the top. I know in most cases these is tension problem. But I have upper thread totaly loose, almost no resistance and bottom thread have so much tension that I realy hard to pull out by hand. After watching hook 100 times I saw, in the moment when needle go down, pull too much thread from bobbin. And when upper thread pull up the bottom one, there in absolutley no resistance on bottom thread because it have big loop, until the thread looks out from the top on the 2mm leather. So setting the lower tension has absolutely no effect whatsoever. I hope someone can help. As Wizcrafts sugest, I check all thread lines and all is threaded correct.

eddo it's been a while, how is the machine? Does it work? Did you find a solution? I have the same problem now. I got a singer 18-3 machine for free which was fully functional but has been sitting in the rain and snow for the past 2 years. Now I can't release the needlebar and foot lifting bar at all. I've been soaking with WD 40 and heating with a torch for a week

Yes, I mean grinding. English is not my language. I was fix that shape and all parts is inside of needlebar diameter. But I don't know if the spring is strong enaugh. It is much weaker than original.

hello, yes, everyone likes their own. I always want to make things as original as possible. Here, someone already had the base sandblasted and powder coated a couple of years ago, and it is very nice. However, I might not do thes. I will certainly not paint the machine, because it is not new, I want to see 100 years of history, while mechanically I want it to be in a good condition as possible. I didn't know there were several different baseframes. I would appreciate pictures. My machine is from 1920, why do you think the base is not from the original? Yes, the parts give me a lot of trouble because they look almost identical. Some fit, some don't. I don't have enough knowledge to know what goes together, even if it's not the same model. So I appreciate your help.

While looking for solutions for the vital parts, I have made cosmetic fixes. While my 29k-2 was falling on hard times, it lost some part of letter G. I decided to recreate it. I modeled a 3d model, printed it and then glued it where it should be. At this point I would like to ask if anyone knows what was originally painted gold on the baseframe? Were the company signs on the sides also gold?

Thanks for the reply. I looked at what they have and I can only find the gear from the shuttle hook. Well, during this time I also got an offer for the original piece, which is less worn.

How strong should this spring be? On my original, a channel was made by the thread. I ordered an aftermarket spring, which is apparently half as weak (even the thickness of the material is half of the original). It also took quite a bit of sanding to get it in place. I haven't tested it yet as I have quite a few other pieces to fix before then. Thanks!