Bosko90

@Constabulary I have made thread guide (For now is copper, but I will make from stainless) @shoepatcher I hope I can find new one. It would be niece if this caused problems. You are second person who notice these gap.

This one doesn't have a lock screw, but I know yes, some have it. I tightened it practically all the way and there's no difference. Do you mean this gap? Hmm, maybe the spring is really bended. That must be flush with housing?

One more video. Focus is little bad it is hard to have phone in one hand and spining machine.

Ok, that's what's missing. But I don't think there should be any problems with that, or? I didn't check the timing specifically because it's grab thread, and I don't even know the exact position for this machine, what it should be. There is one thing that is still wrong and I can't fix it, that's the only thing I suspect could be wrong. The hook goes too close to the needle and it slides on it. I recently got about 40 needles, all of which are worn down to the point where they have a bit of a flat surface on the side. The needle I'm trying with is new. I tried to move the entire lower system, but it was unsuccessful, probably the corrosion was too strong.

Hmm through the eye? No, but it would be possible for the needle to go through the thread. I have a friend who has an Adler 4-2, at the first opportunity, we will try it with his shuttlehook. ok was uploaded to yt. And here are some photos. In the photo you can see the moment when the lower thread becomes very tight and the thread is pulled out of the bobbin. This is the moment when the needle is in the completely lower position. At that time, the upper thread is completely relaxed and does not affect the lower one. In the second photo, the appearance of the upper thread at the same moment. In the last picture we see how a slight loop is made on the lower thread. This is at the moment when the upper thread starts to pull upwards. It pulls until it uses up this excess thread. And this is at the moment when it already looks out of the 2mm leather. This way, the lower thread offers absolutely no resistance to pulling, no matter how tight the tension screw is. And as I mentioned before, if I lightly press this loop against the bobbin case with my finger to hold it in place, it makes a nice stitch.

Both are fine. I feel like it works properly, because I can adjust it from completely loose to so tight that I almost cut my fingers when I pull the thread. And on last time I trying to sew, I had it so tight, and there was absolutely no effect on the stitch. As I said, the lower thread is somehow pulled out so far that when the upper thread lifts it, it goes up so far that it peeks over 2mm of leather. If I hold it down with my finger slightly by pressing it against the bobbin case at the moment the upper thread starts to pull, it makes a nice stitch.

Here needle is at the lowest point, uper thread is lose and check spring have no function at that moment. If, at the moment it starts to pull the thread up, I lightly press the lower thread, which is too much, with my finger, it makes a good stitch.

Sadly no effect when I tighten check sping.

@Wizcrafts I loosened this spring, hoping it would help. so can I tighten it? I'll try. @Constabulary I used thread 20 (138) and needle 160 LR (23). I'll take a picture or video if anything shows up. 20250307_123416_1_1.mp4 When it goes counterclockwise (needle goes down) it pulls too much thread out of the bobbin. When it goes clockwise (needle goes up) the lower thread becomes loose and the upper thread easily pulls it so far that it peeks out at the top of the leather.

I don't know why my topic disappeared, so I'm writing again. So my problem is: I got realy niece singer 45k5. When I try to sew, upper thread pull bottom one to the top. I know in most cases these is tension problem. But I have upper thread totaly loose, almost no resistance and bottom thread have so much tension that I realy hard to pull out by hand. After watching hook 100 times I saw, in the moment when needle go down, pull too much thread from bobbin. And when upper thread pull up the bottom one, there in absolutley no resistance on bottom thread because it have big loop, until the thread looks out from the top on the 2mm leather. So setting the lower tension has absolutely no effect whatsoever. I hope someone can help. As Wizcrafts sugest, I check all thread lines and all is threaded correct.

eddo it's been a while, how is the machine? Does it work? Did you find a solution? I have the same problem now. I got a singer 18-3 machine for free which was fully functional but has been sitting in the rain and snow for the past 2 years. Now I can't release the needlebar and foot lifting bar at all. I've been soaking with WD 40 and heating with a torch for a week

Yes, I mean grinding. English is not my language. I was fix that shape and all parts is inside of needlebar diameter. But I don't know if the spring is strong enaugh. It is much weaker than original.

hello, yes, everyone likes their own. I always want to make things as original as possible. Here, someone already had the base sandblasted and powder coated a couple of years ago, and it is very nice. However, I might not do thes. I will certainly not paint the machine, because it is not new, I want to see 100 years of history, while mechanically I want it to be in a good condition as possible. I didn't know there were several different baseframes. I would appreciate pictures. My machine is from 1920, why do you think the base is not from the original? Yes, the parts give me a lot of trouble because they look almost identical. Some fit, some don't. I don't have enough knowledge to know what goes together, even if it's not the same model. So I appreciate your help.

While looking for solutions for the vital parts, I have made cosmetic fixes. While my 29k-2 was falling on hard times, it lost some part of letter G. I decided to recreate it. I modeled a 3d model, printed it and then glued it where it should be. At this point I would like to ask if anyone knows what was originally painted gold on the baseframe? Were the company signs on the sides also gold?

Thanks for the reply. I looked at what they have and I can only find the gear from the shuttle hook. Well, during this time I also got an offer for the original piece, which is less worn.

How strong should this spring be? On my original, a channel was made by the thread. I ordered an aftermarket spring, which is apparently half as weak (even the thickness of the material is half of the original). It also took quite a bit of sanding to get it in place. I haven't tested it yet as I have quite a few other pieces to fix before then. Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion. That would probably be one solution, yes. But I'd rather save that for the last option. I wouldn't want to modificate parts too much. I was currently thinking about epoxy glue. I don't know how wear resistant it is though. It will probably be for a few years of my little use. If this sewing machine is made for repairing shoes, where you use very little thread, can you imagine how many shoes it went through? :O

I found that the small gear is a bit worn and has a lot of play. But the machine still makes a stitch. Since there is no spare for this model, I decided to make my own. I redrew this one and made it a bit thicker, then I 3d printed at home a test piece that fits nicely. Having already done all this, I realize that someone here on the forum years ago already did this. But I will use my model anyway. Plan is a 3D print made of metal. I am currently still looking for a provider, as most offer stainless steel, but I want aluminum or brass. The reason is that I don't want a harder gear than the original parts, I want a new gear that I can remanufacture to wear out, rather than another original piece.

Thank you Here is another worn part. Does anyone have an idea how to fix it? I'm afraid to heat this part, because of possible heat treatment.

The machine came with a broken Revolving Bush Handle. Unfortunately, the broken piece was not there. This piece can be bought new, but it looks to be of poor quality. Wanting to preserve as many original parts as possible, I set about making a new missing piece. I'm not sure how I'm going to put the piece together yet. I don't know what cast iron the original piece is. Brazing will probably come into play. Does anyone have any experience on how to go about it and what material to use?

Hello, I got a Singer 29k2 1920. I am opening a new topic, because in it I would like to write about the restoration of the machine, how I fixed some things and I would like to ask you who have already repaired a machine for advice and I hope you folks in the know will follow this thread. Unfortunately, not many 29k are sold in our country, so I had to take what was available. This makes me aware of what I have and that there are problems with spare parts. Of course, mine also has problems with the length of the stitch, and I hope I can fix it well. The machine is otherwise in working condition. works a stitch, and so far I haven't seen a skipped stitch. So here is my machine :) First, I set about cleaning all the components, and I installed the missing plate. (At this point I have to say that the sewing machine is primarily a decoration for me, because I am a machinist and I am very interested in antique machines. Of course, I like the feeling that everything works as it should. I also make various things from leather, where this the machine is not vital). Brass nails with a diameter of 1.8 mm fit perfectly. When I went to pick up the machine, I was somewhat negatively surprised that this machine has seen some pretty rough times. But since the machine was working when I saw it and since I was driving quite a distance and the price was not excessive, I decided to take it. Also, the previous owner sanded the base and powder coated it, so I have no work to do with it and it is very nice. Here are some of the battle wounds he's earned over the century: I hope you enjoy this thread, I have more things to post on the go.