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Some folks lay up cartridge loops simply by stitching down a strap to the base (belt, carrier, etc) with predetermined loop lengths and intervals, and there is nothing wrong with that. There is another way to do cartridge loops, and that is what we will look at here. I do my cartridge loops by punching a series of oblong slots in the base (belt, carrier, etc), then weaving the loop strap in and out to form the loops. This produces a pleasing result and is actually pretty quick and easy to do, once you have done a few and gotten a good feel for the work. For illustration I have made a sinple 6-round cartridge slide carrier for .38/.357 revolver cartridges and fitted for a belt up to 1.75" width X 0.25" thickness. Base piece for the carrier is cut from 6/7 oz. veg-tanned, width 3.25", overall length 7.0". This wraps completely over the belt with sufficient space to form the seam at the bottom. A line for the cartridge loops is laid out at 2-1/8" from the bottom line of the front of the carrier. Loop spacing is 0.5" apart. The strap for the loops is cut from 5/6 oz. veg-tanned, 0.75" width. For .38/.357 cartridges you will need about 2.0" of strap length for each loop. Slots for the cartridge loops are cut using a 1/2" wood chisel for the slot sides and a 1/4" round punch for the slot ends. Mark the layout, then tap the round punch at top and bottom to leave a mark, then cut the slot sides with the wood chisel, then finish by cutting the slot ends with the round punch. Now is the time for basic dyeing and burnishing the edges of the strap. Making the loops starts with inserting the end of the loop strap into the end slot, extending beyond the outer edge of the base (carrier), the tacking it down with stitching. Then the loops are formed by going back through the first slot, then on to the next slot. At each loop a cartridge is inserted and the strap is pulled up very snugly before proceeding to the next loop slot. When all loops have been formed the strap is extended beyond the outer edge of the base (carrier) and stitched down. Strap edges are then cut off flush with the base edge. The carrier is then folded over to line up the two ends. In this case I have used a welt 0.5" width between the inner and outer sides, then cemented and stitched the seam. The welt adds strength and rigidity, while also allowing for a nice neat fit over the belt. After stitching the edges can be trimmed as needed, then dressed on a sander, followed by edge beveling. Next the piece is cased (dunked in water for about 5 seconds or so to permit molding) and a wooden mandrel is inserted, simulating the belt. In this case I have used a mandrel 1.75" width by 0.25" thickness. The carrier is molded to the mandrel shape, then allowed to dry thoroughly. It may sound like a lot of work, but it really isn't. I completed this 6-round cartridge slide in exactly 18 minutes, to a point where it is ready for sealing and final finish (which takes perhaps 5 or 6 minutes per piece as I finish 3 dozen or more at a time). The same process can be used for cartridge loops on a belt, or on a strap (such as the Mexican loop style western holsters, shoulder holster strap, etc). When placing loops on a belt that is to be lined and stitched I recommend leaving about 3/8" above the line of the loops to permit easy stitching. As stated, for .38/.357 cartridges the loop spacing I have found to work is 0.5", and strap length needs to be about 2" per loop. For .44 and .45 caliber loops I use a spacing of 5/8", and strap length will need to be about 2.5" per loop. Belts will take just about as many loops as you may find room for. The cartridge carriers work best with no more than about 6 or 8 loops, as wider carriers will not flex easily enough to work around the hip. Best regards.