Forming a zippered gusset

[fernwehleather]

Hey Everybody!

I was wondering if anyone has some tips out there…I’m starting to get into making zippered purses/bags and I’m trying to troubleshoot how to keep the zippered Gusset part flat versus “flipping up” (nothing like being flipped off from your gusset…lol). I have been skiving my edges about .5” in to 3oz thickness, sew at 1/4” seam line, cut excess off and hammer the crease, but flip up it still goes. I’ve used both veg tanned and oil tanned and have the same outcome.

Any tips on how to keep it more flat?

Thank you!

[fernwehleather]

Here’s another pic of a different bag I did in veg tanned leather with the same “flipped up” zipper gusset