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In trouser-making, there is a lot of chain stitching, which has all the necessary construction properties. Examples include the belt and the main seams of the trouser leg. Chain stitching is more resilient under constant stress and stretching, and unravelling is not usually a big problem. Does anyone have any experience of jeans unravelling? I haven't heard of it yet.

I have a few old Union Special chain stitch machines at home and, except for one, they were all used for trouser production. The odd one is an off-the-arm machine that was used for knitted fabrics, but hopefully I will be able to adapt it for canvas.

As most new machines use lock stitching, I guess there were historical mechanical and material problems with that. Perhaps also with using cotton threads, etc. Similar to awl and a needle machines, which you rarely see these days. Modern production is moving towards standardisation, so many special machines are being phased out, construction is simplified etc, everything in order to lower production costs.

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