A new set just finished for a customer

[dickf]

I can get the same detail as the press by using my thumbs and knuckles, but it saves a lot of time (and soreness) to use the press. The press gets about the same definition as the holsters PeterK's holster shows above. For all intents and purposes, this is all that needs to be done for a good functional holster. I like the look of crisp clean lines, so I try to emphasize the more prominent angles with sharper boned edges, if that makes any sense. A couple of tricks -

• shape and bone the holster like normal, and the chase the shapes again with a smaller (but still blunt) boning tool - I actually use the handle for an antique thread cutting dye or the round edge of a bone folder

• make sure the holster is almost completely dry before chasing it with a finer edged boning tool (for this I use the narrow edge of a traditional bone folder)

• don't try to show every detail; only boning prominent features looks good and clean (this is of course only my personal opinion)

• don't run sharp boning lines all the way into other lines; leave a little gap between lines that would run together, and try to stop short with your boning lines instead of running them off the edge of your leather (or overlapping them with stitch grooves or edge creases)

• less is often more; learn when to leave well enough alone (the more time you spend on a piece of leather, the more opportunities you give yourself to screw things up)

Thanks for this and as always, great looking rigs.

[Peterk]

How are you applying your colored wax polish? That's something I have no experience with, but I love how your holster has that nice sheen (your edges look really clean as well - are you doing anything special to get them so clean?). How does this finish hold up to long term abuse?

Hi Boomstickholsters, first let me say thank you for the boning tutorial! I currently use the boning folder from Tandy (plastic) and when I used to use the edges to apply detail boning lines I always end up scratching or cutting the leather, even after I sanded and rounded the edges so I think I will have to get a wood one if I were to try this. I've read that someone else had used beveling tools used in carving to achieve their lines and shadows and I may give that a try as well.

The color wax is applied after the spirit dye is sprayed on. I just figured out how I could smooth and even out any darker spots by using some cotton ball and rubbing alcohol and "push" the dye around. When they dry the finish is nice and even. After the dye has dried, I take a piece of wool and load it with color wax (angelus) of the same color as dye, then apply a coat to the holster. After letting it sit for a couple of minutes, I take another piece of clean wool and polish the holster to get the result you see. I have tried long and hard with Satin and Super Sheen, as well as neatsfoot oil to try to get this look to no avail, and then I got a can of wax just for the heck of it and it worked. I have asked my customer to test drive this new finish for me since this is the first set of leather I've used it on, and because he has one of the more active lifestyle and would put the set through its paces. I have applied the wax to shoes I wear daily and it has held up to the challenge. I still coat the inside of the holsters with Bag Kote though to get them slick and protected.

I don't do much special to my edges and it shows compared to other masters who go through multi-level systems to get them looking like fine polished stone. My method is after dye has dried, I use 2000 grit automotive sand paper on edges to shave off any loose fiber, and then I use the bone folder with Gum Tragacanth for final polish; I finish up with Edge Kote and Bag Kote on top of that for hardness and shine. I used to not do the sanding prior to burnishing with folder, but never got good results so one day I decided to give sanding a try and discovered the secret. :-) I just purcahsed a wood bench burnisher however so I can use less elbow grease...

Thanks all!

Edited February 23, 2009 by Peterk