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ArcherBen

Pancake Holster for Kahr CW9

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I finished this one for a customer a couple of days ago. This is the third piece that I have sold. I've really been enjoying this new habbit, uh i mean hobby I've fallen into, and it's kinda nice to start recouping some of my costs. None of my other hobbies have been able to financially support themselves.

Specs:

Leather: 7-8 oz

Dye: Fiebings Chocolate

Topcoat: Resolene

Cant: 22 degrees

Both dye and topcoat were applied with an airbrush. All comments, critique, and suggestions are welcome.

IMG_0503.jpg

IMG_0505.jpg

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Looks great! Looks much cleaner than my third one, especially the belt slots!

As someone here told me when I first started, don't do any molding/boning behind the trigger, as I see some indications that you may have done some on the front of the holster. If it is just a camera playing tricks then no worries. I did molding on my first Makarov holster and while the trigger is probably 7+ lbs., I can understand the concern of molding behind the trigger upon drawing the weapon.

Just my 2 cents. :) Again, nice holster!

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Looks great! Looks much cleaner than my third one, especially the belt slots!

Thanks for the compliments, but I should clarify. I think this is the ninth holster I've built, but only the 3rd one that I have built for a customer. I agree about molding behind the trigger. I think what your seeing in the picture is where the holster is molded to the shape of the gun at the rear of the trigger guard, but I did not do any serious boning behind the trigger.

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The new Angelus dyes will compliment your holster skills and make your holsters show and feel better. I've currently only tried Jet Black, Cordovan, and Coffee and love all three. Let me know if you find any other interesting colors.

By the way, what leather (weight and vendor), and boning tool are you using? Am still trying to figure out how people get those deep indentations in trigger guards like yours. Only common thing I've heard so far is the use of quality leather from the likes of W&C and Hermann Oak, which I have yet to try.

Thanks!

Edited by Peterk

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I'm using 7-8 oz leather, but I do not know the source of it. I get it from the local leather shop and when I asked the owner for the source, he told me he couldn't remember. I'll have to ask him again. Regardless of source, I can tell that it is very good stuff. I would really like to try some W&C also and even mentioned it to my supplier. For what it's worth he told me that he used to use nothing but W&C, but that this stuff is even better. As far as boning tools, I use a plastic bone folder, then handle end of some of my hand tools, knitting and crochet needles (got that idea from another post here), and an old Osborne tickler (yet to actually try it out but I'm looking forward to it). For the molding inside the trigger guard I use the back side of my hole punch. It's about 1/2" in diameter and works really well inside the trigger guard.

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It's a very cool-looking holster, Ben! I've a question about what you guys are talking about molding behind the trigger, though. . .

<snip> I can understand the concern of molding behind the trigger upon drawing the weapon.

<snip>

Do you mean when re-holstering the weapon? I'm just wondering as it didn't make sense to me. . . :)

Thanks!

L'Bum

Edited by Leather Bum

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Yes L'Bum you are totally correct! I got my directions mixed. It is upon reholstering of the weapon that the molding behind the trigger will affect. I will edit my previous post as not to confuse anyone. :)

Nevermind... Couldn't seem to find the "Edit" button on my previous post...

Edited by Peterk

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