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For my new Ruger 22/45.

This was my third attempt at a holster. The first was a pancake-type that I didn't even bother to sew. The 2nd was a simple version similar to this. I made some minor changes on the 3rd attempt like cutting the top edge down to stop before the rear sights. I am going to make a 3rd version of this holster soon to hopefully work the rest of the "bugs"(I'd like to make a more graceful sweeping curve between the trigger guard and the barrel and also improve my belt loop on the back by sewing in a piece on all 4 sides and cutting slots) out. The black hides a multitude of sins but I think the next version will be tan or natural oiled.

The belt is not one of mine I'm just using it to show the angle.

4321_550433295595_49407210_32607475_8377823_n.jpg

I still need to get a good sanding bit for my rotary tool, also I need to make a burnishing wheel.

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Not bad at all! I wish my 3rd holster looked that nice...

Here's something to consider- That looks very much like a mkIII 22/45, and if so, it probably has a big honkin' gut hook sight on the front, or maybe the fiber optic kind. That's going to interfere with the draw unless a sight channel is included. You can mold it, or sew it. (keeping it simple, folks)

Here's a really easy way that I shared with (member) Freedom who runs 7xLeather.

Do it backwards.

Yep, just like it sounds. Put the folded portion of the leather at the trigger guard side of things. Don't worry, you can still stitch up where you need to for retention.....or put an adjustable tension washer there. What this does is move the "has to be done" seam to the top of the pistol. Sight channel? Add a welt (spacer strip) between the two halves when you sew it. Cut out for a scope? Easier to do here (I think) than try to get the notch lined up just so in the fold. It's also a whole lot easier to burnish the insides of the notch before assembly.

Edited by TwinOaks

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