Somawas Report post Posted September 9, 2009 I took my little tooling class at my local Tandy store. It would be a shame that a cow would die for some of the stuff I've made, so I've done a fair amount with scraps small enough to scab over. And my tooling gets a little better the more little scraps I beat on. Even when I beat on bigger scraps, the cow did not die in vain--at least I have less desire to smack a cow orker. So they told me to make my bever bounce just a little. And when its a little bouncy, my bevelling is smoother. So last night I was beating on a little scab over scrap with my basketweave. Always seems to be something a little off when I use a basketweave. Either I don't get very deep impressions, or the lines don't line up quite where I want them. I noticed that the tool bounced just like the beveler. (Use one of those high tech plastic hammers.) If it didn't bounce, I might be able to hit it a sceond time in the same place and get a deeper impression. How do I get my impressions deeper? How do I keep my basketweave or geometric stamp from bouncing around? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TTcustom Report post Posted September 9, 2009 I took my little tooling class at my local Tandy store. It would be a shame that a cow would die for some of the stuff I've made, so I've done a fair amount with scraps small enough to scab over. And my tooling gets a little better the more little scraps I beat on. Even when I beat on bigger scraps, the cow did not die in vain--at least I have less desire to smack a cow orker. So they told me to make my bever bounce just a little. And when its a little bouncy, my bevelling is smoother. So last night I was beating on a little scab over scrap with my basketweave. Always seems to be something a little off when I use a basketweave. Either I don't get very deep impressions, or the lines don't line up quite where I want them. I noticed that the tool bounced just like the beveler. (Use one of those high tech plastic hammers.) If it didn't bounce, I might be able to hit it a sceond time in the same place and get a deeper impression. How do I get my impressions deeper? How do I keep my basketweave or geometric stamp from bouncing around? I am going out on a limb here because I don't know an iota of what some of these guys do but, water content in the leather is one factor to consider. Too little and the stamp will not be deep enough or "take", and too much and the stamp will mush up and lift up as it dries. The bounce with the basket weave is going to give that double impression that you don't want. Hold it really good and stop the bounce. Maybe you need a heavier hammer? Keep practicing on scrap and such . Having fun and taking out our cow-worker aggressions is part of the benefits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
King's X Report post Posted September 9, 2009 I would have to concur with TT. Water content and possibly a heavy hammer or maul? Also, I would reinterate that you hold firm pressure down on the tool once you determine the position and place you want the tool to stamp before striking it. Good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Somawas, I strongly disagree with what they told you at Tandy. In my opinion you don't want any bounce from anything when tooling. When beveling, you are trying to learn to walk your tool along the cut. This is something that takes a little practice and it is accomplished by applying pressure in the direction you wish to travel. You want to advance about a half a tool width with each strike of the mallet. Experiment with leaning your tool slightly to help accomplish the walking effect. Once you begin to "feel" it, it will all come together. It is best to work on cased leather. If the leather is too dry your impressions will be faint and too wet and you'll drive through the leather. I agree with the others....you may need a maul, however I suspect that the stone your using to tool on isn't heavy enough to absorb the strike. Bouncing is very undesirable, both from the mallet or the stamping block. Hope this helps.... Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Somawas Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Thanks for the suggestions. I agree that no bounce is best, but just a little, maybe, has seemed to make my bevelling a little smoother. So does tool walking. I bought the Deluxe Tandy starter kit for the class. So I have that medium sized plastic hammer. I also have one of their 12 x 12 x 1 1/2 granite slabs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites