needing help on a dog collar

[wildrose]

Former classmate of my hubby's wants a collar for her young German Shepherd named Elvis. She wants it as flashy as one of Presley's belts. She wants people to think Elvis right upon seeing it (but NOT, as she put it, "gay" - LOL!)

It's going to be 1-1/4" x 26". I've ordered the glitz and a star concho she wanted, and it'll arrive soon. Initially, I was going to set it into a belt strap cut down. Then I realized alot of the synthetic sparkly rivets aren't going to go through something that thick. So I chatted with some friends and came up with doing it "double layered" in 4/5 oz. I'm going to cut two straps in 26" and go from there.

So my question is: do I run the extra piece/liner all the way down to the tip where the holes are? I already know what I'm going to do on the buckle end (not bring it as far as the buckle, but double the buckle part over and match it up)

Does this make sense? Any suggestions? This will be the fanciest collar I've made yet.

[rdb]

Your making an 8/9oz belt, which is less than some standard regular single layer ones(9/10oz). I don't think you will have any problems lining the entire length.

When I double my carry belts, I skive the two layers at both ends, and line the full length.

I want to see this thing when you're done! Sounds real blingy.

[Spence]

Former classmate of my hubby's wants a collar for her young German Shepherd named Elvis. She wants it as flashy as one of Presley's belts. She wants people to think Elvis right upon seeing it (but NOT, as she put it, "gay" - LOL!)

It's going to be 1-1/4" x 26". I've ordered the glitz and a star concho she wanted, and it'll arrive soon. Initially, I was going to set it into a belt strap cut down. Then I realized alot of the synthetic sparkly rivets aren't going to go through something that thick. So I chatted with some friends and came up with doing it "double layered" in 4/5 oz. I'm going to cut two straps in 26" and go from there.

So my question is: do I run the extra piece/liner all the way down to the tip where the holes are? I already know what I'm going to do on the buckle end (not bring it as far as the buckle, but double the buckle part over and match it up)

Does this make sense? Any suggestions? This will be the fanciest collar I've made yet.

Funny you should ask.

I'm making up some collars for my German Shepherds - no bling for them !!

Rather than use two straps, I've 'folded' one long one in the center, where I but a D-ring. An inch from that I added a keeper. Another couple of inches, on goes the buckle. Then a couple of inches another keeper. I've handstitched all the way around.

One I did for a customer had a brass nameplate and I just riveted it to the top piece before sewing - you might want to do that with the bling before you sew it up.

The collars I'm making are 1" veg-tanned straps from Wicket & Craig. Doubled like they are, I plan to use them for tracking and I plan to make wider ones as 'agitation' collars for protection training.

I plan to make one up incorporating a 6" handle strap. I'll rivet that to the top layer also.

Here's a couple of pics - taken before the edges were finished. I know, should've done that first. Still learning.

Edited September 25, 2009 by Spence

[wildrose]

Spence, I'm really thankful for your reply. I think it'll be an easier method than what I had planned. Am going to start the project next week.

[Spence]

Happy to help. Can't wait to see pics of the finished product.

[wildrose]

If you could show me one of yours layed flat out, I'd appreciate it. I was thinking the buckle went on the end, but I re-read your description and realize the D ring is on the end.

[Spence]

If you could show me one of yours layed flat out, I'd appreciate it. I was thinking the buckle went on the end, but I re-read your description and realize the D ring is on the end.

Here ya go. You can be flexible with the keepers. You can eliminate the one between the D-ring and the buckle and once you get the buckle sewn on you can place the last keeper when the buckle tongue is in the middle hole. I've got the holes spaced about an inch apart so I've got room to adjust. If I remember right, you're measuring total length of the collar.

I measure where I plan to have the collar ride and put the tape around the neck snuggly (not tight). Adding an inch or two is not necessary.

For example: On a 19" neck, from the fold in the leather to the middle tongue hole will be 24.5" and overall length can be 30" (I leave that determination until the end)

Once I've sewn the hardware in I put the two pieces together with rubber cement and feed it through the D-ring until the inside measurement (circumference) is the same as that of the dog's neck. (from the D-ring, around to the D-ring again. Then you can mark where your center tongue hole will go (where the tongue rests atop the buckle) and punch 2 holes on either side of that hole.

Hope that's clear.

Edited September 30, 2009 by Spence

[wildrose]

That helps ALOT. I can see I ordered the wrong kind of buckle for this style. Can you tell me what you're using?

[Spence]

That helps ALOT. I can see I ordered the wrong kind of buckle for this style. Can you tell me what you're using?

Tandy - Solid Brass - 1550-01 - 1-1/2" (The 1-1/2" is the outside measurement. It will fit a 1" strap nicely, once you slick the edges.)

The Nickel over Solid Brass is 1550-02

[Corvus]

Tandy - Solid Brass - 1550-01 - 1-1/2" (The 1-1/2" is the outside measurement. It will fit a 1" strap nicely, once you slick the edges.)

The Nickel over Solid Brass is 1550-02

Hi Spence,

This is a really interesting method, does it have any benefits in use or is it just about construction? I'm going to have to try this out for myself.

[Spence]

It depends on the dog and what you want to use it for. I want a collar that is not going to come apart because of the work and play I do with my dogs. This particular collar is for tracking. It is 1" wide and I use 4/5 oz. leather - doubled. It could be wider (again - depends on the dog). I've done the same design in a 2" wide for "agitation." If you're not familiar with that, it's the training for protection or the protection part in the sport of Schutzhund. The dog is usually pulling to "get at" the decoy and the wider the collar the less stress on the neck. With tracking, my dogs don't pull so much so I can get away with a 1" collar. On live tracking (the real deal) and patrol or protection work, I use a harness on the dogs.

The design is as much for function (heavy duty) as it is for looks (and deterrent). A bad guy sees a heavy duty collar on a dog and he thinks twice about relieving you of your riches.

I folded it, as opposed to using two straps, mostly to make less work for myself. The D-ring is about as secure as it's gonna get.

I had made a mistake in listing the buckle. I pm'd Wildrose, but it is a Bridle Buckle #12, 1", Part # 1603-01 from Tandy.

[wildrose]

I realized I erred in the length I cut for the strap - it was too short to try Spence's way. So I still folded it over, but I put the buckle on one end, then stitched in two keepers, and hole punched the other end. Right now, I've measured out where I will begin installing the sparklies. Will start setting them tomorrow.

Pics to follow, of course.

[wildrose]

Here's the beginning of the setting; should've allowed for more room on either side of the star, but it'll look good when all done.