Day planner covers

[timw]

These are two covers in a series of three I am making as Christmas presents for my church staff. Praying Hands is for Youth Minister, Praise Him is for our music pastor, and I've yet to do the third for our pastor, which will be the classic 'Jesus knocking at the door' scene. I have a question tho. I am not confident on the staining process. It has been many (20+ years) since I picked up the tools, and have forgotten many 'tricks of the trade'. I would appreciate your imput on how YOU would stain or finish these pieces. If you could describe step-by-step. I know some like 'natural' look, others a stained look. I don't plan to color them (even LESS confident in that area

thanks in advance.

Tim

[Montezuma Monazym]

Very cool! What backgrounder did you use on the Praying Hands cover?

[Timd]

Those look great, Tim

[timw]

Very cool! What backgrounder did you use on the Praying Hands cover?

Actually, I used a Figure tool, the F899, which I consider to be a 'backgrounder tool', or as least I use it more for that than the other.

[dscott]

cool love the tooling on the hands

david

[Double U Leather]

Tim.....looks like it's kinda like riding a bike. You haven't lost your touch in those 20+ years it appears. Nicely done. You'll be richly blessed I'm sure.

As for the staining, I like to use the classic Sheridan style approach to finishing.

1) Neatsfoot Oil- depending on how dark you want it, determines how many and how thick the coats are. For a lighter color, I'd put just a light coat of Neatsfoot on one time. (Let dry 24 hours)* *Important step

2) Neatlac- I like Neatlac, but others prefer a different type of resist. Spray or rub on an even coat being sure to cover every little bit. I use the aerosol cans myself, and put it on generously. (Let dry)* *I like to let it dry overnight to be safe, but at least a few hours. I've ruined many projects getting impatient in the finishing process.

3) Antique- I use Eco-flo gel antique. I've also had good luck with Fiebings antique paste. Either way, do as the directions say. Wipe on, wipe off. The more you wipe off, the lighter the result. (Let dry)* *See #2

4) Tan-Kote- Apply a generous amount being sure that every nook and cranny is covered. Don't worry if it kinda puddles in the depressed areas. After it dried the puddles go away. (Again let dry)

5) When Tan-Kote is thoroughly dry, I take a clean piece of sheepskin and buff it to a shine.

Hope this helps. This is how I do it. There are other, far more qualified than I, that may offer further assistance. Good job and God bless.

[timw]

Tim.....looks like it's kinda like riding a bike. You haven't lost your touch in those 20+ years it appears. Nicely done. You'll be richly blessed I'm sure.

As for the staining, I like to use the classic Sheridan style approach to finishing.

1) Neatsfoot Oil- depending on how dark you want it, determines how many and how thick the coats are. For a lighter color, I'd put just a light coat of Neatsfoot on one time. (Let dry 24 hours)* *Important step

2) Neatlac- I like Neatlac, but others prefer a different type of resist. Spray or rub on an even coat being sure to cover every little bit. I use the aerosol cans myself, and put it on generously. (Let dry)* *I like to let it dry overnight to be safe, but at least a few hours. I've ruined many projects getting impatient in the finishing process.

3) Antique- I use Eco-flo gel antique. I've also had good luck with Fiebings antique paste. Either way, do as the directions say. Wipe on, wipe off. The more you wipe off, the lighter the result. (Let dry)* *See #2

4) Tan-Kote- Apply a generous amount being sure that every nook and cranny is covered. Don't worry if it kinda puddles in the depressed areas. After it dried the puddles go away. (Again let dry)

5) When Tan-Kote is thoroughly dry, I take a clean piece of sheepskin and buff it to a shine.

Hope this helps. This is how I do it. There are other, far more qualified than I, that may offer further assistance. Good job and God bless.

Thanks for the help....that is exactly what I am looking for. In my day, there was no 'eco flo', and some of the things I used (probably incorrectly), aren't around anymore. I know that when I went through my tools, and compared to the current Tandy catalog, I had several that they don't sell anymore.

Now, one more question. If I want to make an area lighter than the rest, (the hands) according to the Sheridan formula, when do I apply the resist (I am using Super Shene as the block out...any recommendations there on a better block out? It seems a couple of coats of super shene does the trick). Back to the question. Would I apply that resist BEFORE the overall coat of neatsfoot, then the neatsfoot, etc etc, or would I do the neatsfoot, THEN do the resist, and then the rest, or what? How would you do it?