Acrylic paint rubbing off!

[OdinUK]

I tried my first painting and dying exercise.

I first cut and bevelled a shape, I painted the raised part in 3 applications of red acrylic that was thinned with a little water, then I dyed the surrounding area twice before buffing the dyed area to remove the excess black. I did this as two samples. Then I used the Baslm and Atom wax on one sample, left it to dry and then buffed it, but a lot of the red paint just came off with the buffing. I have attached a picture of this and a picture of how the other sample looked without the Baslm and Atom Wax.

Please can anyone advise how to stop this happening? Ideally Id like a water resistant sheen to the painted and dyed item. If possible I would like a good red (bright if thats the right word to describe it) colour on the raised area with the rest dyed black. Thank you.

[wildrose]

I find a spray shene works well, like what Tandy sells. Myself, when I'm going to paint with an acrylic, it will be my final step - that is, I do all the dyeing and finishing first, then add the acrylic. But that is mostly for keepsake boxes. If I'm going to put it on something that will see the outdoors, like my briefcase, I either don't put color on it, or I spray it.

[whinewine]

I tried my first painting and dying exercise.

I first cut and bevelled a shape, I painted the raised part in 3 applications of red acrylic that was thinned with a little water, then I dyed the surrounding area twice before buffing the dyed area to remove the excess black. I did this as two samples. Then I used the Baslm and Atom wax on one sample, left it to dry and then buffed it, but a lot of the red paint just came off with the buffing. I have attached a picture of this and a picture of how the other sample looked without the Baslm and Atom Wax.

Please can anyone advise how to stop this happening? Ideally Id like a water resistant sheen to the painted and dyed item. If possible I would like a good red (bright if thats the right word to describe it) colour on the raised area with the rest dyed black. Thank you.

Odin:

simple question... why would you not use a resist such as latex first, dye black, blot the latex to remove the remaining liquid black, then remove the latex when dry, buff the black, then paint with red?

The black is a dye- it seeps into the leather. The red is a paint- it primarily stays ON THE SURFACE- if you buff it vigorously, paint will rub off.

If you don't want to go to the trouble of using latex, then carefully dye around, then buff the black areas, carefully staying away from the un-dyed area. After buffing, THEN paint. There are certainly other ways to approach this, but I've used both these methods. Personally I've never been a fan of the atom wax stuff- I don't think it is particularly water resistant- I much prefer Neatlac of Saddlelac (both sprays, so the colors/dyes can't run), or, if I must use a water-based finish, Fiebings Leather Sheen spray.

Additionally, if you will spray on a finish (light coats, so the dyes/paints can't run into one another) you often don't really need to buff the dyed areas, especially if the dyed areas are small and/or are not going to be constantly rubbing against clothing (like a belt or a wallet).

[OdinUK]

Thanks for the advice.

Are the Neatlac and Saddlelac water resistant and would they offer some protection from rubbing? It doesnt have to be waterbased, as long as it 'seals' the paint from the elements. Can ordinary laquer spray paint be used on leather?

I'll look into these products over the weekend.

[wildrose]

I've also known people (including myself on occasion) who use Krylon clear sprays. Great sealant.

[whinewine]

Thanks for the advice.

Are the Neatlac and Saddlelac water resistant and would they offer some protection from rubbing? It doesnt have to be waterbased, as long as it 'seals' the paint from the elements. Can ordinary laquer spray paint be used on leather?

I'll look into these products over the weekend.

Odin:

the neatlac & saddlelac are both lacquer based, they provide a much greater water resistance than do the water based finishes, and they do seal things quite nicely from the elements. And yes, they will provide protection from rubbing. But paint, being paint, whether brushed on or sprayed on, will still sit primarily on the surfaces, & thus, will rub off if abraded. I don't know if these products [neatlac/saddlelac] can be gotten where you live, although krylon, as Wildrose suggested, is probably available. While not a lacquer base, , it is a plastic or poly base (or so I have been told, so don't quote me on that). I have also used krylon clear spray, and it does dry very quickly.

Good luck! (Btw, what ARE you making that has such a rubbing concern?-To paraphrase Shakespeare, "Ah, what is the rub?")

russ

[OdinUK]

I found Krylon on ebay, and there is a supplier that I know of. I should be able to order the other ones that you mentioned.

Im just starting leatherwork, and besides the exercises in the books I have Im making leather patches, of various bands that I will eventualy sow or attach on to my bike jacket and that will be exposed to the elements. So, Im looking into ways to make dyed and/or painted leather durable.

Last night I tried using regular laquer spray, the kind used for car bodywork. A couple of light coats of that seems to work fine. I think it contains acrylic and it gives a nice sheen. I will try whatever is available.

Thanks again for the advice!

[TomSwede]

I found Krylon on ebay, and there is a supplier that I know of. I should be able to order the other ones that you mentioned.

Im just starting leatherwork, and besides the exercises in the books I have Im making leather patches, of various bands that I will eventualy sow or attach on to my bike jacket and that will be exposed to the elements. So, Im looking into ways to make dyed and/or painted leather durable.

Last night I tried using regular laquer spray, the kind used for car bodywork. A couple of light coats of that seems to work fine. I think it contains acrylic and it gives a nice sheen. I will try whatever is available.

Thanks again for the advice!

Make sure you test the laquer spray for cracking when flexing. I've never tried with regular laquer so just a thought.

Tom

[OdinUK]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the advice. It should be ok as I have already used it based on a recommendation from an artist who has painted a couple of my jackets. I used it to seal in some autographs on my jacket and so far it hasnt cracked. I made sure to use 2 or 3 light coats.

On the sample I sprayed, I shall keep flexing it just so I can see if it does crack.

For those in the UK, Im try the Halfords Clear Laquer.

I'll try other recomended products too.

[OdinUK]

@whinewine, Is it some sort of latex paint that you use, please can you advise on a brand or source? Is it easy to remove once its been used as a mask?

Thanks.

[whinewine]

@whinewine, Is it some sort of latex paint that you use, please can you advise on a brand or source? Is it easy to remove once its been used as a mask?

Thanks.

Odin:

it is NOT a latex paint, it is a liquid rubber used to make molds of things to be cast in plaster, or resin, etc. It can be painted on with a small brush, and when dry, antiques, dyes, highlighter, all-in-ones, etc can be carefully applied over it (be especially careful with dyes, as they can migrate underneath the latex if not blotted up immediately after being sprayed on). After everything else is dry, the latex can be rolled off with your fingers. I bought mine at a store that specializes in model trains. I don't remember the name, because I dropped the container & the lid shattered upon impact, so I transferred what I could salvage into another (unmarked) jar. I believe it is Citizen Kate on this site who has a tutorial about using liquid latex as a resist. The advantage is that, if properly applied, will leave whatever is underneath the same color as the original leather, unlike other resists, like Tandy's Blockout, which are NOT effective blocking out spirit dyes (I don't know how effective it is with water based dyes- I haven't tried that). Tandy's Blockout will also pick up the colors of all-in-ones & highlighters, but at a much lighter shade.

Disadvantages of liquid latex: it is thick, so it is hard to apply over very narrow areas without getting it on the parts you don't want to cover; it generally takes several coats to completely cover; it has a distinct, strong ammonia smell (which is rough on the nose if you are working at close range); if it dries on the brush you're using, the brush is generally junked- use disposable brushes.

I hope this helps.

russ

[OdinUK]

Odin:

it is NOT a latex paint, it is a liquid rubber used to make molds of things to be cast in plaster, or resin, etc. It can be painted on with a small brush, and when dry, antiques, dyes, highlighter, all-in-ones, etc can be carefully applied over it (be especially careful with dyes, as they can migrate underneath the latex if not blotted up immediately after being sprayed on). After everything else is dry, the latex can be rolled off with your fingers. I bought mine at a store that specializes in model trains. I don't remember the name, because I dropped the container & the lid shattered upon impact, so I transferred what I could salvage into another (unmarked) jar. I believe it is Citizen Kate on this site who has a tutorial about using liquid latex as a resist. The advantage is that, if properly applied, will leave whatever is underneath the same color as the original leather, unlike other resists, like Tandy's Blockout, which are NOT effective blocking out spirit dyes (I don't know how effective it is with water based dyes- I haven't tried that). Tandy's Blockout will also pick up the colors of all-in-ones & highlighters, but at a much lighter shade.

Disadvantages of liquid latex: it is thick, so it is hard to apply over very narrow areas without getting it on the parts you don't want to cover; it generally takes several coats to completely cover; it has a distinct, strong ammonia smell (which is rough on the nose if you are working at close range); if it dries on the brush you're using, the brush is generally junked- use disposable brushes.

I hope this helps.

russ

Thanks for that, I will see what I can find in the UK. I'll search for the tutorial. Theres so much to learn!

[Uncle Fester]

I paint the occasional leather jacket, and a technique that works well for me is ironing. just cover the piece with tissue paper and iron it on high for 10 or 15 min. this "melts" acrylic paint into the leather. It's an old airbrushers trick.

[OdinUK]

I paint the occasional leather jacket, and a technique that works well for me is ironing. just cover the piece with tissue paper and iron it on high for 10 or 15 min. this "melts" acrylic paint into the leather. It's an old airbrushers trick.

Are you sure its min not seconds? Im planning on doing some drawing/art classes as I would like to start painting with an airbrush. Ive had a leather jacket and waistcoat painted and even though Ive not tried painting since I was at school, I'd like to give it a try. Id like to be able to paint on leather (or anything else for that matter).

I'll try the iron method as soon as I buy one:) Thanks.