GAP Report post Posted January 21, 2010 (edited) I made a mention when I first found this site and was amazed at the sharing of info and knowledge, that maybe I could share a little that might help someone. I don't know how much this will help, but it has been a saver for me. IT was a pretty simple concept that hatched in my mind in the mid 80's, and I just started throwing things at it. There are ways to improve it that I've thought of since. Just havn't taken the time, since this one has been working so well for me. It was simple to build, the only cost was the trailer jack which still carries the $22.50 mark on it. the rest was salvaged from the scrap pile behind the shop. If you've got a good shop with better tools, I'm sure you could make one smoother. I was working on a cow outfit, and making my family. Hence, money was tight, and I'm sure a lot of you know the same feeling. I made do with what I had, or built it myself. Most things started as just a thought, and developed into something somewhat usable. My tools at the time were just a hand grinder, cutting torch, and a buzz box. I wasn't too concerned about prettieness, since my work time on this project was pretty limited. So, please forgive the crudeness? I just wanted it servicable. This first picture I hope, shows the workings of this drawdown and maybe gives you and idea of how it functions. Most functions were locked in place by welding a nut with a bolt (swivel handle or T) to a piece of pipe which revolves around a smaller pipe. The (seat) functions both vertically and horizontally. The jack is welded onto a sliding pipe with a strap that goes to the top, that runs along in a track on the upper bottom, to keep it perpendicular to the top. Also note, on the upright pipe there is a locking collar to adjust height, and another locking (for lack of a better term) locking bolt below that, to keep it from swiveling. Edited January 21, 2010 by GAP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAP Report post Posted January 21, 2010 A view from the front showing the trailer jack and spreader, while raised. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAP Report post Posted January 21, 2010 (edited) And another from the side with a tree setting backward as if to sew a binding. You can also get an idea how much movement the jack has along the bottom. Sure made it easier sewing a binding on! Get to the side of a cantle, and just roll it over a little more. Edited January 21, 2010 by GAP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Mclean Report post Posted January 22, 2010 I like your creativity. Most things that work started from someone's need. Looks to me like you did a remarkable job with few tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denise Report post Posted January 22, 2010 Looks very functional Gary. Thanks for sharing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted January 22, 2010 And another from the side with a tree setting backward as if to sew a binding. You can also get an idea how much movement the jack has along the bottom. Sure made it easier sewing a binding on! Get to the side of a cantle, and just roll it over a little more. What size pipe have you used? Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAP Report post Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) Tony, The pipe used was 2" ID and 1 1/2 ID. Basically just used windmill pipe. I'm sure if a guy went to a steelyard there would be sizes with closer tolerances to use. I simply welded a 1/4" rod around the ends to keep the sliding pieces from coming off. The first picture might not clearly show that it is tipped at a right angle to the base? You use the drawdown strap to hold the saddle/tree at virtually any position, whether faciing forward or back. What size pipe have you used? Tony. Edited January 22, 2010 by GAP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAP Report post Posted January 22, 2010 Another picture that might better illustrate the side to side movement you can get. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted January 22, 2010 Tony, The pipe used was 2" ID and 1 1/2 ID. Basically just used windmill pipe. I'm sure if a guy went to a steelyard there would be sizes with closer tolerances to use. I simply welded a 1/4" rod around the ends to keep the sliding pieces from coming off. The first picture might not clearly show that it is tipped at a right angle to the base? You use the drawdown strap to hold the saddle/tree at virtually any position, whether faciing forward or back. Many thanks, Gap. Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites