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Jim March

And Now For Something Completely Different (Holster)

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I posted a bit ago about my "weird rig for a weird gun" - basically a semi-western-style critter that grabs the belt with a unique buckle setup. There's two problems with it: the basic quality isn't yet where I want it to be due largely to lack of tooling (typical newbie thing probably) and worse, I didn't get the "tilt" designed in quite the way it turns out I need it. I'm now in the second iteration of this design; in the first I had tried to get it adjustable between two different "tilt angles", one for a strongside forward-tilt and one crossdraw back tilt. This first gen was a failure strongside because it was just too high. Now with the second, I've got a problem whereby the one locked-in tilt angle isn't quite right.

Here's the "mark 1":

4156437709_a23571b617_b.jpg

By switching the "tilt strap" end closest to the camera between the upper and lower diamond conchos with a screwdriver, the tilt angle could be set either of two ways. But again, the lower tilt location (for a strongside forward tilt "FBI style") was a failure due to the height being just too high. In crossdraw however it worked very well. So I rebuilt it as a crossdraw-only in the mk2:

4220697044_79ac09f3a2_b.jpg

This was better but still problematic. Still some QC issues although at least I got a good liner in there, and the tilt angle was still fractionally off.

So I pondered a bit, looking for a way to get serious about "tilt adjustments"...and I think I've got it.

4416045789_fc5043d843_o.jpg

Step one is just a simple fold of leather with two stitch lines, one to the edge and one formed to the gun.

Step two sews small metal rings in a line facing "outwards", sewn to both the inner layer of leather (probably lined under that) and to each other.

Step three adds a top-plate that also encircles the throat, covering the two lines of rings yet allowing access to them from the sides. This "top plate" also hides the "interior sew line" as seen in picture 1, and can contain decorative elements as desired.

Step 4 adds cord to form the belt loops that buckle across the top, using a tapered leather strap through two metal rings. The cord can be paracord 550 or any decent equivalent, and works the same way the strap arrangement works on my "mark 1" and "mark 2" variants photographed.

The inset picture bottom-right shows how each cord side links to one of the holster's rings; these cords can be taken off at any time and re-connected elsewhere, allowing near-infinite adjustment of both ride height and tilt angle.

If I'm right, this critter ought to have at least a vaguely "old west" look to it, yet have the kind of tilt adjustments normally seen on junk like a Blackhawk Serpa yet hug the belt and body MUCH closer in a real leather holster.

Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 license:

creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/

Read: feel free to make one for personal use, credit me if you share the design and drop me a line for low-cost commercial licensing fees.

I hope to have the time to build this for real next week, meanwhile all comments on the design are welcome.

Edited by Jim March

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Hi Jim;;

This is a bit different than what we normaly see,, nice work ,if it works and you like it its great ,,,thanks for the very complete post ,,enjoyed it ...Doc...

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I posted this to one other place, a general gunnie forum I frequent. It's gotten some additional discussion, clarification and pics:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401582

As far as I'm aware my belt attachment system is unique (not to mention universal to any belt width). If I can get this "multi-ring attach point setup" working, it'll be even moreso :).

I'm considering solid strips of either stainless or brass instead of individual rings, to spread the "stretch stress" over many more stitches and leather. Most people will set it up how they like it and leave it that way...I can see it getting distorted over time.

I might even do a solid strip of metal across the front covered in leather as shown, with the holes each side, paint the metal and then cover it with the outer leather piece as shown. The kicker there is, I could drill'n'carve patterned holes through that sheet of leather that would show the painted metal underneath...say, paint the metal red, then carve cougar pawtracks with claws through the leather cover sheet so that the pawtracks appear red? Offer different tracks/colors as options?

I don't think I'd do stone inlay like on mine for anybody else. Too much risk of it breaking. If it happens to me, no problem, I'll just rebuild it :D.

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