Denster Posted March 17, 2010 Report Posted March 17, 2010 Sorry one more for you guys - how do you get your stich lines close but not too close? Its always a guess for me. I saw a prior post on here that talks about using a L ruler but can't make heads or tales out of it? Any advice? That was my post. I guess it was clear as mud. I use my square to make an L shape on a piece of posterboard and put the muzzle of the gun on the lower leg and draw a line following the profile of the gun going somewhat wide of the gun below the triggerguard. Then I cut along that line. Follow the other directions given and lay the posterboard on your holster lining up with the register marks and scribe along the outline. Quote
Members dickf Posted March 17, 2010 Members Report Posted March 17, 2010 Great advice guys I will use it all in my next build. I do have one questions - I have read on here that know when the holster is dry enough to start moulding by when its cool to the touch and the leather has returned almost to its natural color. Here is my problem, I dye my holsters then build then mold. As a result I can't use color as an indication of when to mold. So what do I do? Obviously I am molding to soon - any advice??? I dye mine prior to stitching and molding, as well. The better the leather, the less water it will take; that has been my experience. Get it wet, but don't go folding it back and forth - that is what creates the little hairline wrinkles. Let it sit for about 5-10 minutes if you think it may be too wet, then come back and start molding. If you have a pattern for that holster (which you should), it should be easy to alter it a little to bring the stitch line in closer where necesary. Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
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