Tippmann Aerostitch Problem (Not Making Stitch)

[Denster]

Luke

That is exactly what I meant by overstitch. As to making the lockstitch stronger with 277 or 346 thread there really is no point. The thread is all ready stronger than the leather and the likelyhood of it wearing through in anyplace in the life of the holster is virtually nill. I've never understood the point in double stitch lining holsters other than for looks as there is no practical purpose to it. Anyone that disagrees feel free to chime in.

[luke213]

Luke

That is exactly what I meant by overstitch. As to making the lockstitch stronger with 277 or 346 thread there really is no point. The thread is all ready stronger than the leather and the likelyhood of it wearing through in anyplace in the life of the holster is virtually nill. I've never understood the point in double stitch lining holsters other than for looks as there is no practical purpose to it. Anyone that disagrees feel free to chime in.

That makes sense and I hadn't really thought about it in that manner as far as the leather going before the thread. I guess I was focused on abrading the thread or it being cut and unraveling, because I know how difficult it is to remove a saddle stitch and lock isn't easy but it's certainly easier than saddle stitch to remove. Either way I'm not too worried about it just was wondering if anyone else had any ideas, I guess I could have worded it as a way to stop unraveling. I guess if we overstitch to lock out stitching double stitching on top seems to me like it would lock every stitch so to speak, but I admit that it wouldn't look very good aesthetically. Either way just a brainstorm of sorts;)

So I took your advice and I think I improved.

I actually broke the top thread at about the half-way point and that's why there are two spots with overstitch. I used a small flat headed hammer to tap the threads after lightly casing the leather and it looks like it removed nearly all the marks from the foot(well I also took the foot and filed off the sharp edges then buffed it with 2000 grit wet paper). I missed my groove at one spot but I think it's an improvement.

Any suggestions as always are appreciated:)

Oh and I forgot to mention I know my tension was a little tight on the needle side I didn't notice till half way through, and I've been fighting with tension quite a bit. Actually that's another question in itself. I seem to have too much top tension but it's nearly completely off. I've double checked that it's threaded per the manual and I'm really lost. Basically to get it to work properly tension wise the primary and secondary have to be at around 1/2 turn(rather than 1.5 and 2), and the bobbin tension is actually not 1lb. or so of pull I would guess I'm running like 3lbs. just to try and get some adjustment to the top side of the system. If I'm understanding the mechanics of the operation getting the bobbin down to 1lb. of pull would require even looser tension on top(which of course you can't get when you're as far adjusted as it goes). How much tension should I have on the top thread is lbs? When pulling through the needle for instance? Just trying to get a ballpark because I suspect my problem is something either in one of the tensioners is wonky or perhaps I'm threading it wrong despite reading and watching the video's.

Thanks again for all the help:)

Luke

[Denster]

Luke

I'm guessing you are using bonded nylon thread. That is one of the reasons I switched to poly in both the Aero and the Boss is it runs through the machine so much smoother. There are a few tricks you can use with nylon. First in any case make sure your tensioner shafts are lubed. You can lube your thread either with one of the lube pots Weaver or Tippmann sells or you can just spritz your thread spool with silicon periodically. Also on your secondary tensioner don't loop the thread around the shaft but just bring it in the back side then loop around the primary. Tippmann used to show this in some of their threading illustrations in the manual and it is usefull with the heavier threads particularly nylon. Or you can just switch to poly, I get mine from weaver and it is generally pre lubed. I use 346 top and 277 bottom and stitch at 4&1/2 to 5 spi. I llike a plump stitch and this looks nice front and back.

Your stitching is looking pretty good just keep practicing and you will get the feel for it locked in.

[Denster]

Luke

One other trick I use. I use my aerostitch for belts and sewing in liners, particularly in western holsters, where the extra throat depth is handy. On this stuff I don't gouge a stitch groove but crease it in. Then if I loose my focus and get a bit out of the crease it just disappears when I case and tap my stitches and no one is he wiser. Most other holster work I do on the Boss and it almost impossible to miss the groove so I gouge those in.

[suem]

This is a little off topic but relevant to the machine. I take it this is not made anymore? What a fantastic idea, a pneumatic sewing machine. I guess if I want one it's going to be used, are parts still pretty available? Thanks.

[Denster]

This is a little off topic but relevant to the machine. I take it this is not made anymore? What a fantastic idea, a pneumatic sewing machine. I guess if I want one it's going to be used, are parts still pretty available? Thanks.

Tippmann still supports the machine and carries a full line of parts.

[Zo9zA]

This is a little off topic but relevant to the machine. I take it this is not made anymore? What a fantastic idea, a pneumatic sewing machine. I guess if I want one it's going to be used, are parts still pretty available? Thanks.

Hey to Suem,

This being my first post I'm not sure if this is the proper way to respond to your question about the Tippmann Aerostitch machines but I have had two over the last eighteen years and am going to probably sell my current model soon. I will most likely list it on the page of this forum that lists such things. Tippmann still makes all the parts and accessories and offers a very helpful support team for service.