How Tightly Should The Holster Form To The Pistol?

[Lobo]

Just adding a note regarding the 1911 pistols, as this is one element of this discussion.

Not all 1911-style pistols are created equal. In addition to the Colt products there are at least a dozen other brands, some of which manufacture most or all of their own parts, and others that use parts made in places as far off as Brazil (SA, Auto Ordnance/Kahr, etc) and the Phillipines (Charles Daly and others). Dimensions of the slides, frames, and other parts vary considerably even though most are within a relatively narrow range. In addition to standard production models from a dozen sources there are also many custom models from several makers. In addition to differing slide contours (flat tops, etc) there is quite a bit of variation in actual finished dimensions because of the different machining and finish work done.

An almost infinite range of aftermarket parts and accessories add to the mix. Thumb safeties and slide releases are probably the most varied, with many shapes and contours seen regularly. Several makers offer models with accessory rails, and none of the different rail designs share the same dimensions.

Some makers offer models with obvious variations, such as Kimber's "carry melt" treatment on the CDP series pistols, with all sharp edges beveled and/or rounded off. My usual carry piece is a Custom CDP, and I form my holsters directly on that pistol for the best results.

I receive several requests every year for holsters molded specifically to support the thumb safety in the "on" position. If all thumb safeties were identical this would not be terribly difficult to accomplish, but that is not the case.

As Boomstick has accurately observed, the boning process is intended primarily to achieve the maximum contact between leather and pistol by molding the leather closely to all surfaces and details of the pistol. When this process is applied using the actual pistol to be carried in the holster the result should be an excellent fit. But when anything other than that pistol is used the result will be something less precise.

It would be easy to accumulate a couple of dozen dummies (or actual handguns) to match the majority of production pistols, but even that would leave quite a few models for which you have no actual match. Personally, I have 6 dummies of 1911 variations, and I also have a nice collection of 1911 pistols from 1914 to 1991; but I can't say that I have one of everything! My gun safe is already full, and the safe deposit box won't hold much more. Sometimes the customer just has to make a choice between something that I know will work, or making the actual pistol available for patterning and forming.

Regardless of the approach used, the finished holster will still be subjected to a number of changes during the initial break-in period. It will conform to the belt in use, and to the user's body contours (in many cases), with the results including some amount of stretching in the leather fibers as well as a degree of distortion caused by belt tensioning. If the resulting fit of the holster's "body" to the handgun remains properly formed and snug that holster is likely to provide good service for a long time.

[TwinOaks]

Well put, Lobo. I'd like to add that besides the variances in finished dimensions, there's also quite a difference in actual finish that will play a role in retention and smoothness of draw. A stainless steel or blued finish will pull a bit differently than a parkerized or nitrided finish. Just one of the 'little things' that must be considered when designing and building holsters.

[Deanimator]

I get my holsters damp by running them under warm tap water until thoroughly moist.

I then use my fingers and the butt end of my awl and free hand stitch groover to mold around the frame and trigger guard. Most of the retention quality is in the inside of the front of the trigger guard. If the holster isn't tight enough once it starts to dry, I simply re-wet it and fix the areas needing tightening.

As pointed out by someone else, getting in tight with your stitch lines makes a big difference. I don't use any secondary stitch lines because I design all of my IWB patterns to be as tight to the outline of the gun as possible. This makes the molding easier. My molding isn't as pronounced as some others', but the holsters are quite secure. I don't consider the holster done until the gun won't move when the holster is inverted with the gun in it.

Regarding the practice gun used, I had a BUNCH of those Japanese zinc models when I was in grade school and highschool in the late '60s and early '70s. I knew how to strip an M1911 when I was in the 7th grade!

My M1911 tuckable IWB:

[Reaper]

I do it so there is enough retention from the fit that I can flip the holster upside down and the gun will not fall out, but I do not have to tug the gun out when worn with a belt adding to the retention.

oh, and I wet my leather with cold water as it seems to dry tighter though that is probably just my perception of it.

Edited October 24, 2010 by Reaper

[Lobo]

We see comments regarding cold water vs. warm water vs. hot water from time to time. It occurs to me that whatever temperature of water is used, the dampened leather will return to room temperature well before evaporation is completed, so there won't be much (if any) difference.

I have also heard people say that they fill their ice cube trays with hot water, then put them into the freezer. It occurs to me that the water will have to get cold before it freezes, so what is the difference?

Heat can be used during the drying process, and can have a profound effect on formed veg-tanned leather. Applying controlled heat in the 130-degree range as the piece dries results in a very rigid finished product, caused by the effect this has on the collagens remaining in the leather fibers.

Personally, I like to use cold water during the summertime and warm water during the winter, mainly for my comfort while doing the work. After the initial forming work everything goes into a drying cabinet with controlled heat, and I use a timer to aid me in performing final forming and boning work as the moisture levels drop.

[1911 Operator]

We see comments regarding cold water vs. warm water vs. hot water from time to time. It occurs to me that whatever temperature of water is used, the dampened leather will return to room temperature well before evaporation is completed, so there won't be much (if any) difference.

I have also heard people say that they fill their ice cube trays with hot water, then put them into the freezer. It occurs to me that the water will have to get cold before it freezes, so what is the difference?

Heat can be used during the drying process, and can have a profound effect on formed veg-tanned leather. Applying controlled heat in the 130-degree range as the piece dries results in a very rigid finished product, caused by the effect this has on the collagens remaining in the leather fibers.

Personally, I like to use cold water during the summertime and warm water during the winter, mainly for my comfort while doing the work. After the initial forming work everything goes into a drying cabinet with controlled heat, and I use a timer to aid me in performing final forming and boning work as the moisture levels drop.

LOBO,

Could I trouble you for some information on your Drying Cabinet? I can PM you as to not hijack the thread, but, how can I get one? how do you use it?

I find i lose a lot of time waiting for something to dry...

Edited November 3, 2010 by 1911 Operator