jim lucas Report post Posted June 5, 2010 I recently bought a mint condition Osborne 86 off e-bay. It arrived with no instructions and when I went on-line to Osborne looking for instructions, I received a single page that was of little help. I'm interested in finding instructions for it's use. I'm planning to use the splitter on cow and water buffalo hides that have been tanned. The final use for the split leather is headstalls, reins, ect. I have mounted the unit on a very sturdy work table, verified it is razor sharp and played with the adjustments to determine how they work. Now I want to get to work but have questions" 1. is the leather worked dry or does it have to be with added moisture? 2. If the leather to be split is heavy, do I have to taper the entry point to allow the split to start through the roller/blade? 3. what is the prastical limits of the width to be split. The blade is 5+ inches in width but sure seems like a heavy pull to split the full width 4. Is the use of (pliers) or other tools necessary to pull the leather through the unit 5. should the leather be split in a single pass or must it be multi-passed to get to the final product 6. im using diamond sharpening tools for all my hoof knives and finish with jewelers rouge and buffing wheel..Someone have better method for the splitter blade? 7 will the splitter work with any success on rawhide? Jim Lucas cacaufarmer@yahoo.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted June 5, 2010 Jim, Following the numbers here - 1. I usually split my leather dry. 2. If the leather is really heavy you can put a strain on the spring action splitters if they have one (86 does). The 86 worked for me better just relasing that thumb lever as I started the pull. The ones without a spring like the 84 or the 83, you have to taper the cut into the leather with the handle as you go. To just mash down the handle on the leather sitting there, setting it, and then pulling is straining the frame or the blade edge. The Chases or Krebs like it better if you start the pull as you lower the top roller too. 3. The width capacity depends on the blade. A really sharp blade with flatter taper can split almost full width. I've got a 12" Chase pattern and can pull 11" fork covers through when the blade is fresh, but those blades are thinner and have a lower angle than the 86. 4. I use lasting pliers to pull some through, just depends. 5. Sometimes I split in two passes, just depends on how much I am taking off and the blade to roller clearance. With my hand crank and the Chases. I usually take off about 3 oz at a time. That doesn't really over stress the spring actions much. 6. I use the diamond stones and buffing wheel too. When I am ready, I test them like a knife and cut some firm leather and test the full length of the blade. 7. They will split damp rawhide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jim lucas Report post Posted June 5, 2010 Bruce, Thanks for taking time to help..I will give the Osborne a ring out this week end. Jim Jim, Following the numbers here - 1. I usually split my leather dry. 2. If the leather is really heavy you can put a strain on the spring action splitters if they have one (86 does). The 86 worked for me better just relasing that thumb lever as I started the pull. The ones without a spring like the 84 or the 83, you have to taper the cut into the leather with the handle as you go. To just mash down the handle on the leather sitting there, setting it, and then pulling is straining the frame or the blade edge. The Chases or Krebs like it better if you start the pull as you lower the top roller too. 3. The width capacity depends on the blade. A really sharp blade with flatter taper can split almost full width. I've got a 12" Chase pattern and can pull 11" fork covers through when the blade is fresh, but those blades are thinner and have a lower angle than the 86. 4. I use lasting pliers to pull some through, just depends. 5. Sometimes I split in two passes, just depends on how much I am taking off and the blade to roller clearance. With my hand crank and the Chases. I usually take off about 3 oz at a time. That doesn't really over stress the spring actions much. 6. I use the diamond stones and buffing wheel too. When I am ready, I test them like a knife and cut some firm leather and test the full length of the blade. 7. They will split damp rawhide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites