Stitching Around Holster Mouth Reinforcement

[BigRiverLeather]

There are a few holster makers out there that provide reinforcement for the mouths of their holsters either with kydex or steel. The two I will be referencing today are Garrity Gunleather and Milt Sparks, the difference in the construction is that the Milt Sparks stitches all the way around their reinforcement which seems to compound the problem.

Here is a picture of a Garrity Gunleather 2C1 Holster. You can see the kydex reinforcement sewn into it, only sewn on the top, I presume glued in to keep it stable. Kydex will only form with heat and I know for a fact this is pre-formed. The leather and stitching would burn with the 300 degrees required to form it. Because it is preformed it would be necessary to stitch around that tight corner, probably not being able to get it close enough to the needle with the throat plate in the way, even if stitching sideways. Is hand stitching my only option on this part or am I missing a specific technique?

I do know the maker is using an Adler 205 in this case to stitch it. I am using a Toro 3000 which is, as far as I can tell, not that much different in and around the throat plate.

Here is a picture of the Milt Sparks VMII. This is steel reinforced and is QUITE rigid. They manage to stitch all the way around the reinforcement. The only way I can think of this being done, other than by hand, is if there is a small enough throat plate that would enable me to get it inside the holster and rotate it around it or stitch the bottom portion, slide the steel reinforcement in then finish up the stitching, still having to rotate around the throat. This would mean the bobbin would have to be located elsewhere.

VMII

Also, I realize that "If you build a holster properly, it does not require any reinforcement" However, I want to build what the market asks for and frankly, this is a nice feature.

[desertw0lf]

There are a few holster makers out there that provide reinforcement for the mouths of their holsters either with kydex or steel. The two I will be referencing today are Garrity Gunleather and Milt Sparks, the difference in the construction is that the Milt Sparks stitches all the way around their reinforcement which seems to compound the problem.

Here is a picture of a Garrity Gunleather 2C1 Holster. You can see the kydex reinforcement sewn into it, only sewn on the top, I presume glued in to keep it stable. Kydex will only form with heat and I know for a fact this is pre-formed. The leather and stitching would burn with the 300 degrees required to form it. Because it is preformed it would be necessary to stitch around that tight corner, probably not being able to get it close enough to the needle with the throat plate in the way, even if stitching sideways. Is hand stitching my only option on this part or am I missing a specific technique?

I do know the maker is using an Adler 205 in this case to stitch it. I am using a Toro 3000 which is, as far as I can tell, not that much different in and around the throat plate.

Here is a picture of the Milt Sparks VMII. This is steel reinforced and is QUITE rigid. They manage to stitch all the way around the reinforcement. The only way I can think of this being done, other than by hand, is if there is a small enough throat plate that would enable me to get it inside the holster and rotate it around it or stitch the bottom portion, slide the steel reinforcement in then finish up the stitching, still having to rotate around the throat. This would mean the bobbin would have to be located elsewhere.

VMII

Also, I realize that "If you build a holster properly, it does not require any reinforcement" However, I want to build what the market asks for and frankly, this is a nice feature.

.. I stitch my reinforcements on BEFORE final construction/wrapping/forming/etc...

[BigRiverLeather]

Thanks for your reply desertw0lf. Can I ask for some specifics then? What are you using for reinforcement, steel (type and thickness), kydex or? With either of these materials, how are you forming it then.

Is it wrapping all the way around the slide? They problem I foresee with forming steel is getting it to form up to the gun on the top of the slide, in the area I have circled in the image above. I would think when one compresses it (I use a book binding press) it would push the steel away from the top of the slide.

I would have no idea how to form this with kydex inside it not being able to heat it enough.