Keeping Edges Vertical?

[RandyScott]

Does anyone tips on how to avoid this problem?

The suggestions to use a round knife is because the width of the blade, 4" - 6", makes it very easy to see when the blade is canted from the vertical. My mentor, with about 60 years of experience, has several head/round knives however he uses an 'angled utility knife'. He has three or four scattered around the cutting table. Here is a link to the Tandy product he uses: http://www.tandyleat...ture=Product_26 . Ergonomically it fits the hand well, therefore more 'controlled' power can be used to make a single cut through 8 - 12 ounce leather. And, keep that blade polished and strop often to keep that razor edge on the blade. His work is predominately on large stuff, knife sheaths and holster/gun belt rigs. I personally found that if I position my work light to shine directly down the line of cut toward me, then I could also use the shadow of the blade as it fell on the pattern to assist me in keeping the blade vertical. Just as in sawing wood with a handsaw, body position is very important in keeping the blade vertical and learning that comes with practice.

Some of the posts segued toward the Damascus blades, lot of money for a knife. I picked up two very nice and older CS Osborne head knives with 4" - 4.25" blades for less than $30 each plus shipping via EBay. Might want to try a less expensive tool to determine if you want the more expensive version. It took me a while before I was comfortable with my fingers anywhere close to those razor sharp head knives. I made very sure my fingers were behind the cutting edge. I still use them occassionally, however, I now use my angle utility knife for most cutting as I find it easier to control the cut and I can put more power into the cut.

[Lobo]

Now that everyone is all excited about round knives I'll add a comment or two.

In my shop we use heavy-duty scissors, specifically the Kobalt 9-1/2" Multi-Purpose model sold at Lowe's for about $25.00. With only a little practice these will provide very detailed and clean cutting of up to around 10-oz. veg-tanned. 6/7 or 7/8 is pretty easy to cut for anyone with moderate hand strength.

My first pair of these is about 2 years old. During that time I have touched up the edge twice with a diamond sharpening steel. The second pair has been in use for about 4 months with no sharpening needed. In perspective, we are turning out about 1500 items per year, so this is very low maintenance indeed.

I can cut about 8 holster patterns per hour with these. My apprentice is doing a dozen or more per hour. She does this work while sitting in a comfortable chair, listening to the radio, enjoying a cold drink, rather than standing over a work bench and trying to keep track of all her fingers with knives.

After assembly and stitching the edges are dressed with a sander, then beveled, and burnished as part of the finishing process. The results are excellent.

Now, rough cutting is a different matter. After marking out several patterns on a side of leather I use an electric sheet metal shear to cut around each one, setting it aside for detail cutting with the scissors. With this method I can have a dozen patterns roughed out of the hide and ready to cut in about 30 minutes. So overall cutting time for a holster pattern is about 7 to 8 minutes, which I doubt can be beaten by much with any knife work.

Keeping things simple works for me.

Best regards.

[Deanimator]

Now that everyone is all excited about round knives I'll add a comment or two.

In my shop we use heavy-duty scissors, specifically the Kobalt 9-1/2" Multi-Purpose model sold at Lowe's for about $25.00. With only a little practice these will provide very detailed and clean cutting of up to around 10-oz. veg-tanned. 6/7 or 7/8 is pretty easy to cut for anyone with moderate hand strength.

I think you're definitely onto something here. As I believe I mentioned, I tried using my grandmother's 50+ year old seamstress's shears, but they need a good sharpening. I got my tuckable M1911 IWB done this weekend, and for the most part managed to get pretty straight edges, which I cleaned up with a Dremel and sanding drum on a router speed control to keep the speed down.

I'll definitely have to give the Kobalt's a look since I actually walked past Lowe's today when I was out for exercise a couple of hours ago.

Thanks.

[Denster]

Hey Lobo! Thanks for the tip. I had to go to Lowe's this morning to return some excess roofing material. Went to check on the scissors and Lowe and behold they have them for $9.98. I have to cut patterns this afternoon and if they work as well as you say my poor old carpel tunnled wrist will thank you aslo.

[cstephens]

Ok I'm off the Damascus high but now I wonder about a new sensible knife. Are the new Osborne knifes worth the money? I can't stand to watch and watch on eBay to finally find a good knife only to be outbid by $2.00 because they snipe me. I did buy 3 pairs of wiss industrial low leverage scissors for 2 bucks each but I want to learn some more traditional ways as I am a more hobbiest then a businessman. Any suggestions for a decent priced quality knife for a beginner?

[Deanimator]

Hey Lobo! Thanks for the tip. I had to go to Lowe's this morning to return some excess roofing material. Went to check on the scissors and Lowe and behold they have them for $9.98. I have to cut patterns this afternoon and if they work as well as you say my poor old carpel tunnled wrist will thank you aslo.

I bought the last pair my neighborhood Lowe's had today. I need to get a bunch of holsters made for next month's club swap meet so they're going to get a workout..

Edited August 9, 2010 by Deanimator