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A friend of mine wants me to make him and IWB for is baby Glock. Before I can do that I had to make one for myself. Here's my first try, it's for a Kel-Tec P-11.

post-11824-003960200 1286993198_thumb.jppost-11824-016634100 1286993201_thumb.jppost-11824-000727900 1286993199_thumb.jp

Suggestions, comments?

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Nice.

Can't possibly be a FIRST TRY, though. I'm throwing a B.S. flag on that play.

(My first holster was as ugly as homemade soap)

Does it have a channel for the front sight?

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Nice.

Can't possibly be a FIRST TRY, though. I'm throwing a B.S. flag on that play.

(My first holster was as ugly as homemade soap)

Does it have a channel for the front sight?

This is my first try at an IWB. I have made a few other holsters before this one, you can see them at my profile page.

Yes I do have a sight channel, I used a small dowel rod taped to the slide from the front sight to just shy of the ejection port.

As for my first holster every, here's how it looked.

post-11824-043964800 1286996345_thumb.jp

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That looks great! How did you attach the snap loop... T-nut? Did you use a screw through the snap base? What size?

I'm trying to figure out the best hardware solution for that style of loop.

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Very nice looking. I don't usually like the look of rough out but that looks very clean and classy.

I make a holster with a belt loop like that and I sew it on, mainly because it's over the gun so I don't want hardware touching the pistol. I've used T nuts before for those when it won't touch the weapon. I use either size 10-24 I think. Maybe it was 8-32?

I have a question: When wearing that holster and during the draw is it very stable? I've thought about making something similar but have always been nervous about the weapon pushing down therefore pushing the belt up. Maybe I should just make one and try it for myself. It would make it a little thinner than having the strap center on the gun and easier than putting one on each side.

Edited by billymac814

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That looks great! How did you attach the snap loop... T-nut? Did you use a screw through the snap base? What size?

I'm trying to figure out the best hardware solution for that style of loop.

Thanks for the compliments.

I used a T-nut with a screw through the snap base and a star lock washer between the leather loop and the holster to help keep it from spinning. The T-nut and screw that I used was a 6-32x3/8 and I had to cut about 1/8" off of the end of the screw.

I've been wanting to try this hardware and finally had a chance.

Very nice looking. I don't usually like the look of rough out but that looks very clean and classy.

I make a holster with a belt loop like that and I sew it on, mainly because it's over the gun so I don't want hardware touching the pistol. I've used T nuts before for those when it won't touch the weapon. I use either size 10-24 I think. Maybe it was 8-32?

I have a question: When wearing that holster and during the draw is it very stable? I've thought about making something similar but have always been nervous about the weapon pushing down therefore pushing the belt up. Maybe I should just make one and try it for myself. It would make it a little thinner than having the strap center on the gun and easier than putting one on each side.

Thank you for your compliments.

When I have a loop over the gun I will either sew it on like you mentioned or I'll add another piece of leather over the face and sew it on and put the snap base between the leather and sometimes I'll glue a piece on the inside to cover the snap/T-nut base and shave it down very thin.

I've had the same concerns as you with this holster but with the rough out and the belt snug that single belt loop is holding great. I've been wearing it for the last 3 days with no problems. I've practiced drawing and re-holstering and I've had no problems. The draw is very clean and the holster stays in place. When re-holstering if I jam the gun in I will have to reposition the holster but it doesn't move much. If I have to jam it in a hurry I can leave it where it moves to because it's not that big of a deal. If I pay attention when holstering it doesn't move at all.

I was very surprised with this holster, it carries the pistol a lot better then I expected.

Edited by KB8UVM

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Thanks for the compliments.

I used a T-nut with a screw through the snap base and a star lock washer between the leather loop and the holster to help keep it from spinning. The T-nut and screw that I used was a 6-32x3/8 and I had to cut about 1/8" off of the end of the screw.

I've been wanting to try this hardware and finally had a chance.

Thank you for your compliments.

When I have a loop over the gun I will either sew it on like you mentioned or I'll add another piece of leather over the face and sew it on and put the snap base between the leather and sometimes I'll glue a piece on the inside to cover the snap/T-nut base and shave it down very thin.

I've had the same concerns as you with this holster but with the rough out and the belt snug that single belt loop is holding great. I've been wearing it for the last 3 days with no problems. I've practiced drawing and re-holstering and I've had no problems. The draw is very clean and the holster stays in place. When re-holstering if I jam the gun in I will have to reposition the holster but it doesn't move much. If I have to jam it in a hurry I can leave it where it moves to because it's not that big of a deal. If I pay attention when holstering it doesn't move at all.

I was very surprised with this holster, it carries the pistol a lot better then I expected.

Good to know, I may make one that style and try it out. I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the size of gun, I doubt I'd make one for a heavy gun but it looks good for a small concealed pistol like a Keltec, Lcp or BG. I'm not as worried about reholstering on a gun like that anyway, if it carries well and the draw is clean is my main concerns with a concealed carry holster like that.

I too have sewed an extra piece and put the t-nut inbetween layers, usually on the mouth reinforcement. That makes it easy to replace a belt loop if it gets worn out, although I haven't been doing it long enough to come accross anything wearing out yet, or be able to switch it out for a clip or different size loop.

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Actually BillyMac I've seen this holster for a full size 1911. I don't think a heavier gun matters with this holster as long as it is longer. I'm guessing that a longer gun will have more friction and will handle the heavier gun.

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There are a number of Holsters out there for Full size weapons in a similar design. Though most that I have seen have a side by side/double snap loop set up. There are a few that even have Kydex loops on them.

Looks very nice and functional for sure. I like the idea of this holster better than a pocket one or a clip on the slide. Something that would be a cool pocket idea I think would be a read pocket holster where you carry your mouse there so when you reach for your wallet when mugged, well, give em what you got! (though I would want access to the trigger while holstered in this type of rig)

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There are a number of Holsters out there for Full size weapons in a similar design. Though most that I have seen have a side by side/double snap loop set up. There are a few that even have Kydex loops on them.

Looks very nice and functional for sure. I like the idea of this holster better than a pocket one or a clip on the slide. Something that would be a cool pocket idea I think would be a read pocket holster where you carry your mouse there so when you reach for your wallet when mugged, well, give em what you got! (though I would want access to the trigger while holstered in this type of rig)

I think for a heavier gun I'd still feel better with a clip on each side, however I see the concept and I"m sure it's just fine, the rough out and tension of the belt should keep it in place just fine.

I have seen holsters that are shaped like a wallet and have access to the trigger so that you can fire it while holstered, I forget who makes them, but a google search would find them easily. I've been working on a back pocket holster but not the kind your talking about, mine has a flap that prevents printing and also keeps it positioned, you just reach behind the flap and pull it out. I haven't had much time to finish it though.

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