Quinn W Report post Posted November 5, 2010 First time poster but an established mask-maker. However, I've had to stick with the half-mask design on almost all of my work so far because I have a very hard time molding over the nose. I always end up with large folds and creases that I can't ever manage to get rid of. I see many examples of nice, smooth, realistic looking noses on masks and I can't think as to how leather cold bend that way without requiring folding or cutting, etc. What's the secret? So far, for the few full face masks I've done, I've just had to stick with designs that either work around the nose, or simply incorporate the folds into the design somehow. Thanks everyone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted November 5, 2010 You are wetting the leather when shaping it, right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Quinn W Report post Posted November 6, 2010 Yes, I wet veg-tanned leather and form it to my face. Looking into getting molds, but I generally use my own face as the model. Could that be part of it, since I can't push quite as hard and such for comfort reasons? Some of my work: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilsonq/sets/72157623870608268/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moeg Report post Posted November 7, 2010 Hi Quinn, those are very nice masks, the first one is my favorite. Moe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Report post Posted November 7, 2010 I haven't made any masks myself, but I would say that you should have some sort of form to stretch the leather over to get the nose how you want it. I have wet formed some leather in the past, and sometimes it requires a good bit of force to get it smooth. Are these just for you, or do you sell these? If you sell them your form will need to be somewhat of a universal fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted November 7, 2010 I agree with Biggundoctor, to keep the leather smooth, you should be stretching the leather over the nose, not trying to compress it. In some of my work, I've done a bit of embossing from the flesh side of the leather. The results are much better than only trying to compress everything else around it. Look for ClayB's avatar (check out the figure carving section) and you'll see where he did a bear snout that stands out from the surface. In one of my conversations with him about the technique, he told me that Verlane (I think) 'pushed' a horse's muzzle out to almost 6 inches from the surface. Remember, it's skin....well preserved skin, but skin none the less. As long as you keep it adequately moist, you should be able to easily stretch out a nose. Local economies differ of course, but I can get mannequin heads here for about $25. Check beauty supply stores, hairdresser supplies (wig holders), etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Quinn W Report post Posted November 7, 2010 Thank you everyone. I think my problem is that, using a real nose (mine) rather than a sturdy nose, I have to be a little more delicate in the shaping, and can't apply the force required to stretch the leather. I have never tried to stretch leather in any of my work, and have thus far relied solely on bending and folding to achieve shapes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leatheroo Report post Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) Hi Quinn, i too hate trying to mold a nose...it takes a lot of hard work...i find these tools very useful for stretching leather. They are hat makers tools for making flowers. The last photo shows the hairdressers training head that i have cut in half and stuck to a board. It is great for mask making. I also have a couple of heads that aren't cut in half as well. They are hard enough for molding, but soft enough that you can stick pins in to hold leather while it is drying. I have a tutorial on my blog, you can find it here.. http://leatheroo.blogspot.com/2010_06_01_archive.html cheers caroline Edited November 7, 2010 by leatheroo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Report post Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) Again, I have never done this, but I would also guess that the type of leather also plays a big part in how it comes out. Weight Cut--belly, shoulder, etc Type--cow/calf, pig, buckskin, etc. Nice work Leatheroo. I think I dated your model once How many masks do you make in a year? Those hat tools look like they would be pretty easy to make. How exactly are they used in the millinery shops? Edited November 7, 2010 by BIGGUNDOCTOR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leatheroo Report post Posted November 8, 2010 (edited) Hi bigdoc....i use veg tanned calf skin...its about 1mm thick, which i think is 3oz for you, sometimes i use 1.5mm. I dont make that many masks anymore, i have trouble selling them, but then again i dont try that hard!!! I think the ball tools are used for shaping flower petals for flowers on hats. I picked up a set off ebay...they are quite heavy, made from brass maybe. Here's a pic of my other 'heads' quite the happy couple.....decorations by daughter! cheers Edited November 8, 2010 by leatheroo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Quinn W Report post Posted November 9, 2010 Thanks for the tutorial. I use a relatively similar technique, and to decent effect, it's just the shaping of the nose and lips I've had trouble with, so until now I've just done masks that didn't cover those areas, just like the one featured in your tutorial. I did note that you cut the eyes out after you have done most of the shaping. That makes sense for achieving more accurate placement, although I've always found leather easier to cut accurately and symmetrically while it's still flat. My order of operation is Cut, tool, shape, (dry,) paint/dye (haven't tried airbrushing yet). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites