Gun belt measurments

[Rhome]

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here can tell me how to measure and cut a curved or contoured belt like the ones Galco sells? Mucho thanks,

Rhome

[ErikLittle]

I would make a template for the radius you want for a strip. Smaller waist sizes require a tighter radius, larger sizes require a larger more gentle radius. After you cut your first strip, you can't make the second cut using the curved edge that is left in the hide from the first cut. If you do, your radius, or curve will continue to get smaller. You have to start with a new cut for every strip of leather. Once your strip is cut then your can finish you billets, etc. If the belt is lined then you have to glue the lining first before cutting. This is a pain to do. Erik

Edited May 6, 2008 by ErikLittle

[Rhome]

Thanks Eric, but how does one come up with the proper radius? I agree it does sound like a pain but I was wanting to at least try one. The belts I made were straight cut 7 oz. laminated.

[ErikLittle]

7oz. is way too light for a gun belt. 13 - 14oz. for the main load bearing part and 10 - 11oz. for the ends. When I have to make a new pattern, I just eyeball it, but that's me. You could take an old belt that is "broke-in" to your hips and use it's radius to make a strip pattern. Erik

[Rhome]

Erik, I used to make my gun belts out of 2 pieces of 9 oz. glued and stitched but I and my customers found that to be to thick, 1/4 in ? wow. So I started making them out of 2 pieces of 7 oz, glued and stitched, I know we are talking fractions but they worked out to be very good and plenty sturdy for everyday ccw carry. Now I was visiting you're web site and the belts you offer ( the contoured curved ones) are the ones I'm trying to figure out how to make in various waist sizes. So you are eye balling the contour curve of the belt or is there some mathmatical fomula for figuring the contour curve for the various waist sizes ?

Thanks,

Rhome

www.desbiensgunleather.com

[ErikLittle]

From my experience, the 1/4" thickness is ideal for big bore pistols. Now if you are holstering a Walther PPk, then you can get away with a thinner belt. It basically depends on the rig. The entire rig should be made for the specific pistol. Very important if your life depends on it.

I am sure there is probably some Trigonometry that could be used to determine the an exact radius, but I'm no rocket scientist. Ideally the radius for each person's body type is different, but that is not possible to obtain. I just have found one that works for the different lengths staying to the rule, smaller waist sizes require a tighter radius, larger sizes require a larger more gentle radius.

A frind of mine, Bruce Nelson, who was a famous holster maker taught me how to do this. Alot of makers today say that these types of belts aren't necessary because the straight cut belt will eventually conform. I think they just don't want to take the time to cut them. Contour belts feel more comfortable to me even after the break-in period for both. Galco does not hand cut their belts. They die cut for each of the sizes. My two clickers aren't big enough to use belt dies and I don't think most companies have the ability to die cut either. Galco is huge. Erik

[Jordan]

Just to interject a note here that I have seen else where, Radius belts do generate more waste, which I imagine is perfectly oke-dokee if the price of the item reflects it.

[ErikLittle]

Radius belts don't generate anymore waste than do straight. It can if you don't do it correctly. That waste doesn't mean much when you charge more for the extra time and expertice put in the product. Like you said, the customer is paying for it anyway. I have built hundreds of these and will continue as long as they keep selling. Erik

[carr52]

I just made a paper template and kept messing with it till I got it the way I wanted it.Still havent made the belt yet. Working on a different type at the moment.

[bcurrier]

I guess it depends on just how accurate you think you want to be. An accurate to the body, made-to-fit 100% belt, for example, wouldn't technically be cut on a radius at all, it would have a number of compound curves. Some of the techniques people use to create patterns (like the stick and steel rule approach that Bianchi teaches) don't result in a true radius either. Note also that you HAVE to develop a non-radius pattern for a decent fit on a slung gunbelt - one where it's carried high on one side of the body and low on the other. A belt cut on a radius will gap if worn this way.

One way to get a good pattern is to use an approach similar to that used for women's hemlines. A piece of fabric or pattern material is wrapped around the hips or waist, then you mark lines (representing top and bottom of the belt) on the pattern material around the body with a marker held level to the floor. There is a marker holding device used in sewing for hemlines, but it's easy enough to rig up something high enough for belts. The pattern material is removed, cut out on the lines, and there's your starting pattern.

Bill

[ErikLittle]

bcurrier,

I beg to differ with you. Radius is a relative term. Besides you are talking about a completely different gunbelt style. And not to argue, but what the author was wanting to know has already been given.

Edited May 9, 2008 by ErikLittle

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Well, all you have to do is take a look at a straight belt that has conformed its shape to your body, and you will see that it doesn't make a perfect arc. There are spots with more bend and places that are fairly straight (ie. a compound curve). The funny part is, belts contoured on a perfect radius have to conform to your shape just like the straight ones do. This being the case, bcurrier's suggestion is probably the most accurate way to come up with a true contoured belt (the real trouble here would be having to ship the customer to your shop and back to take the measurements ).

[Rhome]

Well, all you have to do is take a look at a straight belt that has conformed its shape to your body, and you will see that it doesn't make a perfect arc. There are spots with more bend and places that are fairly straight (ie. a compound curve). The funny part is, belts contoured on a perfect radius have to conform to your shape just like the straight ones do. This being the case, bcurrier's suggestion is probably the most accurate way to come up with a true contoured belt (the real trouble here would be having to ship the customer to your shop and back to take the measurements ).

[ErikLittle]

Rhome,

I hope I was able to help you out! For the rest, forget I even tried to help. These forums are all the same, you try to help someone out and then end up getting flamed by the rocket scientists.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I am not aware that anyone was flamed here....

I am merely trying to help, as it looks like the others who have posted here are (yourself included, Mr. Little). I offered my personal reasoning on the subject and an example of why I agree with bcurrier's observations, not baseless claims as your retort "flamed by the rocket scientists" would suggest. As far as being the end all and be all of gun leather design, I am deffinitely not. That having been said, when it comes to working out patterns or designs, this ain't my first rodeo either....

If you have an example of why I am mistaken, by all means let me know. I learn new things about leather work almost every day, and it certainly won't be the first time I've made a mistake. If you don't have anything to say, that's fine, but please don't resort to the useless act of name calling just because you believe someone contradicted your post.

[tonyc1]

I am not aware that anyone was flamed here....

I am merely trying to help, as it looks like the others who have posted here are (yourself included, Mr. Little). I offered my personal reasoning on the subject and an example of why I agree with bcurrier's observations, not baseless claims as your retort "flamed by the rocket scientists" would suggest. As far as being the end all and be all of gun leather design, I am deffinitely not. That having been said, when it comes to working out patterns or designs, this ain't my first rodeo either....

If you have an example of why I am mistaken, by all means let me know. I learn new things about leather work almost every day, and it certainly won't be the first time I've made a mistake. If you don't have anything to say, that's fine, but please don't resort to the useless act of name calling just because you believe someone contradicted your post.

My sentiments exactly!

Tony.

[Jordan]

I beg to differ, this forum is NOT anything like all the others. There are outstanding individuals here that are more than willing to share their knowlege and opinions, no one that I have read seems to have intentionally flamed or otherwise belittled anyone for those opinions. Y'all keep up the good works and post more dang pictures so I can massage them into my projects

[Rhome]

I beg to differ, this forum is NOT anything like all the others. There are outstanding individuals here that are more than willing to share their knowlege and opinions, no one that I have read seems to have intentionally flamed or otherwise belittled anyone for those opinions. Y'all keep up the good works and post more dang pictures so I can massage them into my projects

+1 Jordan, I was thinking the same thing. I want to thank all of you for your help, you are all fantastic as far as I'm concerned.

[bcurrier]

I hope I was able to help you out! For the rest, forget I even tried to help. These forums are all the same, you try to help someone out and then end up getting flamed by the rocket scientists.

I'm the only one who was flamed here. Nothing I said should be taken as a criticism of your posts, Erik. My post was a contribution to the general topic, nothing more.

Bill