Splitting Rawhide

[8KCAB]

Hello all.

I am attempting to make my own rawhide string. I have a Hanson string cutter and a side of rawhide from Tejas Industries. I cased the hide according to instructions found in Hought's Romal Reins book. I have a few questions I was hoping someone could help me with.

1) How would you characterize the way the strips feel as you run them through the splitter? Should they cut like butter, or does it take some muscle? I find myself pulling too hard, and I think the hide may be improperly tempered or the blade is not sharp enough. I have always made fine screwdrivers out of my pocket knives with a sharpening stone...

2) I thought I had let the hide dry enough before I put it in the plastic sack. However, I found drops of moisture in the sack after 24 hours. As per my instructions, I took the hide out and let it dry a few more hours, and returned it to the sack. I then cut my strips with a draw gauge, and rolled them up hair side in. I stored them in ziplocks in the refrigerator for a day. When I took them out to split, there way a bunch of water droplets in the bag. Does this mean that there is still too much moisture in them?

Any replys are appreciated!

[Annie B]

Hello 8KCAB- I am in the process of making lace from a rawhide round (from Bill Confer - Tejas). I'm no expert, but this is how I do it.

First I put water in the bathtub and soak the round for a few minutes. Shake the water off, roll it and put it in a burlap sack and then into a plastic trash bag. Secure the bag. I store it in the garage during the winter because it is definitely cool enough. Summer, it would have to be refrigerated. Do this every morning until the rawhide "bends" but does not fold over.

I then take the round and use my string cutter, cutting the whole thing no more than 1" wide. After that, I cut the 1" into 1/2" and make them approximately 13 feet or so in case I want to braid reins.

When the strips are 1/2", it is fairly easy to split. It should split more like butter, but just take a tiny bit off at a time. I usually go through the splitter 4 times until I get the thickness I want. If you have to pull too hard, chances are the blade is not sharp enough. I've found that the extreme sides of the splitter seem to be the sharpest. I do sharpen my blade regularly with a wet stone and finish with a surgical black. One thing I found this time was that it is better to split the rawhide when it is a little dry. Otherwise you are going to overwork it and create those dreaded white areas. It's also easier to bevel when it is a little on the dry side. My thumb is a bloody mess, but the rawhide lace is nice and pretty. Drier is definitely better than too wet. I've ruined a lot of rawhide because of impatience. Good Luck! Ann

Hello all.

I am attempting to make my own rawhide string. I have a Hanson string cutter and a side of rawhide from Tejas Industries. I cased the hide according to instructions found in Hought's Romal Reins book. I have a few questions I was hoping someone could help me with.

1) How would you characterize the way the strips feel as you run them through the splitter? Should they cut like butter, or does it take some muscle? I find myself pulling too hard, and I think the hide may be improperly tempered or the blade is not sharp enough. I have always made fine screwdrivers out of my pocket knives with a sharpening stone...

2) I thought I had let the hide dry enough before I put it in the plastic sack. However, I found drops of moisture in the sack after 24 hours. As per my instructions, I took the hide out and let it dry a few more hours, and returned it to the sack. I then cut my strips with a draw gauge, and rolled them up hair side in. I stored them in ziplocks in the refrigerator for a day. When I took them out to split, there way a bunch of water droplets in the bag. Does this mean that there is still too much moisture in them?

Any replys are appreciated!

[8KCAB]

Thanks a lot for your advice. I have seen your website and your work is awesome. I also like to go packing in the Sierras, so I need to get your book. Here's a couple pics of what my straps look like right now. I think I just have way too much moisture. I'm going to let them dry out.

[dirtclod]

You might want to roll them a little looser so they dry at the same rate or close to it. The way they are in the picture the outside pieces are going to dry quicker just from the air being able to get to them. Or it looks that way to me.

[Annie B]

Thank you! We live in an awesome area.

Yes, I think your rawhide is too wet. That was good advise to roll it more loose. You shouldn't see any "water" or white areas. What are your plans for it? It looks pretty thick and might be easier to split in narrower strips if possible. When you do start splitting it, you should not take any more off than as if you were peeling a sunburn. Somebody told me that and it was a very good description and one that I could remember! You want to keep that rawhide transparent. Ann

Thanks a lot for your advice. I have seen your website and your work is awesome. I also like to go packing in the Sierras, so I need to get your book. Here's a couple pics of what my straps look like right now. I think I just have way too much moisture. I'm going to let them dry out.

[8KCAB]

I think I'm starting to feel what "tempered" is. I wish it was like that when I cut my strips with the draw gauge. It's almost waxy, or like cutting a soft cheese. My book said to split the strips, then size and bevel, and the instructions that came with my cutter said to size, split and then bevel. It's a lot easier to split when it's already sized. My book warned that they are easily stretches when already sized, but I think it was worse with the extra friction of a wider strip. I could need a better edge on my splitter, but I'm just not great of a sharpener.

My book also says to bevel both the hair and flesh sides. My splitter instructions had a bevel on only one side (beveling with the flesh side up, which I thing means beveling the "hair side"). A lot of the work I see here (including the honda's recenclt discussed) look like they are only beveled on the hair side. I'm going to just do one side for now, since it's pretty much a big cluster right now. I have managed to get a few strings I can actually braid with, I think.

Any thoughts on beveling?

[Aggiebraider]

When you bevel, make sure you just knock the corner off. This is why many old timers call beveling "cornering". And just take a little off, less is more

CW

[curlyjo]

8KCAB,I wouldn't do any sizing until you have split all your'e string. The splitting will take most of your stretch out and then you can size them up and get more uniform string. And only bevel the top when its rawhide. You should be able to get plenty of string out of small pieces of rawhide cut in a circle, 30" diameter rounds, and work off of that. I never cut string wider than 5/16" to make hondas or smaller for Bosals and than split. Brad

[Annie B]

Hello 8KCAB

I definitely bevel both sides of rawhide. If I'm going to finish with 1/8" or 3/32" lace, I usually split it when it is about 3/8" wide. Then I cut my strings the final width. With the type of braiding that I do, I rarely go any wider than 1/4" finished strings.

Bevel the flesh side first. Bevel the hair side last. You should not have to adjust your beveler. You'll take slightly more off the flesh side when doing it first. When you switch to the hair side, only a fine sliver will be taken off. When you bevel, only take off a minute thread....like a piece of thread for sewing...even less if the lace is very fine (3/32" or less). You just want to knock off the edge which will make it smooth to the touch and lay better when braiding. We all have our own preferences and ways of doing things, so try everybody's advice but keep what works for you. Ann

I think I'm starting to feel what "tempered" is. I wish it was like that when I cut my strips with the draw gauge. It's almost waxy, or like cutting a soft cheese. My book said to split the strips, then size and bevel, and the instructions that came with my cutter said to size, split and then bevel. It's a lot easier to split when it's already sized. My book warned that they are easily stretches when already sized, but I think it was worse with the extra friction of a wider strip. I could need a better edge on my splitter, but I'm just not great of a sharpener.

My book also says to bevel both the hair and flesh sides. My splitter instructions had a bevel on only one side (beveling with the flesh side up, which I thing means beveling the "hair side"). A lot of the work I see here (including the honda's recenclt discussed) look like they are only beveled on the hair side. I'm going to just do one side for now, since it's pretty much a big cluster right now. I have managed to get a few strings I can actually braid with, I think.

Any thoughts on beveling?