Newbie Questions About Finishing

[gfiles77]

I have been reading post after post throughout this site for weeks, and i think i have confused myself more than helped myself....so i have a few questions before i mess some projects. and let me start by saying that the closest supply store (tandy) is over 2 1/2 hrs away so im looking for products that could be bought at other places, wally world,auto stores ect.....

#1 Saddle Soap. is there a special type that is used or the basic stuff in the shoe section of most stores.

#2 Carnauba Cream/wax is this carnauba car wax?????

#3 polishing/shining after dyeing is mink oil or natural shoe polish, a good choice or is something better to use for a final protectant and to polish a little.

#4 parafin wax. i have read many posts about using pariffin for a final step in edge burnishing. how is it applied... is it melted first, or is it rubbed in from the bar form.

sorry for all the noob questions. and thanks for the help. i have learned so much in such a short period of time, all thanks to this site, and the people who take the time to answer questions for beginners like me!!!!!!!!!!!1

[katsass]

I have been reading post after post throughout this site for weeks, and i think i have confused myself more than helped myself....so i have a few questions before i mess some projects. and let me start by saying that the closest supply store (tandy) is over 2 1/2 hrs away so im looking for products that could be bought at other places, wally world,auto stores ect.....

#1 Saddle Soap. is there a special type that is used or the basic stuff in the shoe section of most stores.

#2 Carnauba Cream/wax is this carnauba car wax?????

#3 polishing/shining after dyeing is mink oil or natural shoe polish, a good choice or is something better to use for a final protectant and to polish a little.

#4 parafin wax. i have read many posts about using pariffin for a final step in edge burnishing. how is it applied... is it melted first, or is it rubbed in from the bar form.

sorry for all the noob questions. and thanks for the help. i have learned so much in such a short period of time, all thanks to this site, and the people who take the time to answer questions for beginners like me!!!!!!!!!!!1

Well, from the grumpy old man.......

.#1: The stuff acquired at the shoe polish area in the market is fine.

#2; NOT Carnauba car wax......NO

#3: For years I have used 'Mop and Glow' floor wax(?) for a final finish. Mix it 50/50 with water and can be applied with a damp

sponge, a soft damp rag, airbrush etc. A smooth light coat or maybe two and it will penetrate the leather...may darken a bit

however. It's an acrylic similar to Fiebing's Leather Sheen. I usually follow up with a light coat or two of neutral shoe polish

rubbed in with fingers (no rag) and buffed with an old washcloth, then a softer one to finish

#4: I don't use paraffin wax, I use bee's wax. Easily obtained from anywhere sewing supplies are obtained. Just rub it on in the bar form prior

to the final burnishing. Remember it will retard the application of most finishing materials. Paraffin works the same.

Hope this gives you a hand.......... also live a fair distance from a leather supply place.......... Tandy's...and I won't use them too much anyway. Mike

Edited March 20, 2011 by katsass

[gfiles77]

Thanks for the help

[gtdewbre]

Any hints on how to keep dye from fading?

[Chavez]

Sorry, I'll cut into your thread with more noob questions:

Is carnauba cream a final polish or does it need to be sealed over?

At the moment I'm using the following method:

1) Case & slick

2) Oil with EVOO

3) Dye & buff

4) Apply resolene & buff.

The resolene seems to make the leather look a bit like plastic. I've started cutting it 50/50 with water so now the look has improved a bit.

I have been advised that carnauba is a great finish that does not kill the "leather" look, but Its not waterproof. Would carnauba go instead of resolene in the process above?

Also a question about edge coating: do I apply the adge kote after I have sealed the item with resolene?

Thanks for your help!!!

[Steven Kelley]

#3: For years I have used 'Mop and Glow' floor wax(?) for a final finish. Mix it 50/50 with water and can be applied with a damp

sponge, a soft damp rag, airbrush etc. A smooth light coat or maybe two and it will penetrate the leather...may darken a bit

however. It's an acrylic similar to Fiebing's Leather Sheen. I usually follow up with a light coat or two of neutral shoe polish

rubbed in with fingers (no rag) and buffed with an old washcloth, then a softer one to finish

I've been using Resolene and Angelus 600 acrylic, unhappily, for quite a while. They are both a bit of a pain to apply without streaks or bubbles. I've used a brush, a sponge, an airbrush, and for the past couple of months have just been dipping. Regardless of application method, they require a lot of attention after application to make sure the finish looks good. Definitely not apply and forget, at least not for me.

After reading several posts by Katsass about the 50/50 mix of Mop & Glow and water, I decided to give it a try. I will say that application is about as fool proof and simple as it can be. I just put it in a normal spray bottle. Spray a light coat on, let it sit a few seconds, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. No bubbles, no streaks, no tackiness........... I apply 2 to 3 coats this way, letting each dry before the next. The final finish isn't glossy like when using Resolene. It's has more of a matte luster appearance. I really like it. I think the leather looks more natural, and it's 100% easier in the application and "baby sitting" department. I can't comment on durability, but I've read somewhere that Katsass has been using it for 40+ years, so I'm sure if it wasn't durable he would have noticed by now.

[katsass]

After reading several posts by Katsass about the 50/50 mix of Mop & Glow and water, I decided to give it a try. I will say that application is about as fool proof and simple as it can be. I just put it in a normal spray bottle. Spray a light coat on, let it sit a few seconds, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. No bubbles, no streaks, no tackiness........... I apply 2 to 3 coats this way, letting each dry before the next. The final finish isn't glossy like when using Resolene. It's has more of a matte luster appearance. I really like it. I think the leather looks more natural, and it's 100% easier in the application and "baby sitting" department. I can't comment on durability, but I've read somewhere that Katsass has been using it for 40+ years, so I'm sure if it wasn't durable he would have noticed by now.

Steven, Thanks for the kind words re: my 'poor man's Resolene'. I usually follow up the application of Mop and Glo with a coat of neutral Kiwi shoe polish. I rub small amounts into the leather by hand ... no applicator, just fingers. The warmth from my hands seem to get the wax into the leather better. Polish to a low gloss with an old washcloth. It allows the leather to still look like leather ... not plastic as so many products do. Mike

[Steven Kelley]

Steven, Thanks for the kind words re: my 'poor man's Resolene'. I usually follow up the application of Mop and Glo with a coat of neutral Kiwi shoe polish. I rub small amounts into the leather by hand ... no applicator, just fingers. The warmth from my hands seem to get the wax into the leather better. Polish to a low gloss with an old washcloth. It allows the leather to still look like leather ... not plastic as so many products do. Mike

I've been using Johnson's Paste Wax with nice results as well. Rub it in, let dry, then buff. I have a buffing wheel setup in my drill press. Run at a fairly slow speed it does a good job of polishing the leather without being too harsh. I really like the look this combo gives. Thanks for sharing it! Much more "natural" look IMHO than I can get with Resolene or Angelus 600.