Members chaosready Posted May 6, 2011 Members Report Posted May 6, 2011 Hey, folks. Here's my latest effort. Twin loop IWB for Glock 17 with mouth reinforcement. Went with natural main body and black belt loops. In action: Quote
Members Big O Posted May 7, 2011 Members Report Posted May 7, 2011 Looks good. Pretty sure you already know what the problems are, and are frustrated by them. Seems like the main problem is miscalculating the stitch line right where the top front of the trigger guard meets the dust cover, making it too tight to get the pistol all the way in. That section, maybe 1/2" long, was pretty much the ONLY thing that kept the stitch line from ending up PERFECT, from what I can see. It also resulted in the back of the slide sticking out past the sweat shield. The sweat shield, by the way, is getting a lot closer. Who knows? Maybe both of us will get to the point where we can both absolutely nail it every time..... Stitching looks good, edges are pretty much like mine. If there's anything wrong with the dye or finish, I damn sure can't see it. Looks GREAT. I really really really like what you did with the reinforcement piece. Artsy. Looks highly functional, too, based on the last couple of pics. ,,,,,,and, uh, yeah......about that last pic........I thought that *I* was just barely removed from Cro-Magnon man........ LoL Quote
Members chaosready Posted May 7, 2011 Author Members Report Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) Quite perceptive of you, Big O. Yes, I did have a hell of a time getting that glock into the wet holster as far as did, it literally took all of my strength. I definitely cut that trigger guard stitch line too close. I guess I'll give it another quarter inch (maybe?) of clearance or so next time. Thanks for your commentary once again. You've helped out a lot with my previous stuff. I made a nice little tool for doing the edges. I just took a short length of oak dowel, put a wood screw through it, cut the head off the screw, and stuck it in the dremel. I burnish first with just water, then go over it again with beeswax. Ends up looking pretty good, especially with black dye. And gets the job done FAST, like in minutes. And yeah. My great-grandparents were mountain gorillas :D Edited May 7, 2011 by chaosready Quote
Members Big O Posted May 7, 2011 Members Report Posted May 7, 2011 I also use a Dremel, with a cocobolo burnisher made by another guy on this forum. I need to look him up again, because I want at least one more of those... As for the stitch line, when I'm feeling meticulous about it, I use a compass to draw the stitch line on my pattern, and follow the outline of the pistol exactly.....making sure to mind the curves. Set the compass to 1/2 of the slide width, PLUS the thickness of the leather. Put the pattern on the leather, mark the holster outline, cut it out, then put the pattern back on the leather and poke holes along the stitch lines, into the leather. Then just follow the line of holes with a freehand groover, using a ruler to keep it straight on the straights. When I'm not feeling meticulous, I mark spots about every 1/2" or so using a ruler, to get the spacing, and then draw the lines freehand. The rest still applies. Quote
Members Big O Posted May 7, 2011 Members Report Posted May 7, 2011 .....and it's not so much that I'm perceptive, as that I've made that very same mistake.....and more than once. LoL I can tell you other things NOT to do: - use the oven in your kitchen to heat-treat your holsters after molding. You know that 150 degree setting? It LIES! - set a hair dryer one foot away from your holsters for the same reason, and leave it alone for 30 minutes. Same result. Try 2.5-3 feet instead. - use a Tandy 4-prong diamond punch to make holes in 8/9 oz leather, doubled up. The tool won't even last one holster. - use a 1/16" drill bit to make your holes. - use a 3/64" drill bit, so the holes will be smaller, then PULLLLLLL your needles through with pliers. - not sharpening your awl frequently. If you're clenching your teeth, you're doing it wrong. Sharpen it, already. - use a Dremel cutting disk to cut leather. WHAT is that SMELL?! - cut belt slots freehand, using a utility knife. - SOAK your holster in hot water for 5 minutes prior to molding, and start molding immediately. Yeah......THAT will work..... - use a whole BUNCH of neatsfoot oil. Don't worry. It'll dry......sometime before you retire, hopefully. - use straight Resolene as a finish. Apply it using a foam brush. - not listening to the Grumpy Old Man the FIRST time. Okay, well, maybe that's not a mistake. Some folks just gotta touch the burner.... Quote
Members Shooter McGavin Posted May 7, 2011 Members Report Posted May 7, 2011 A little off topic, but to add to you list of things not to do. - use a table saw like a circular saw while trying to cut a stationary item. Holster looks pretty good. I'd freak out a bit about the trigger coverage. I also prefer to pre-curve mine a bit during the molding process. Makes them a bit easier during the break in. Quote
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