Dying Leather And Top Finishes

[uscglechief]

Greetings,

I just picked up this hobby and so far find it very fun. My question is how long should you wait after dying leather to buff off the excess and apply top coats? I've been waiting 3-4 hours between coats then applying a top coat. I'm using Eco Flo dyes and seriously thinking of switching to a spirt base dye. When I apply the top coat (Satin Shene or Super Shene) it tends to "lift" the dye and smear it.

What am I doing wrong? Pics attached for the attache case

Appreciate any/all responses

Jess

[katsass]

Greetings,

I just picked up this hobby and so far find it very fun. My question is how long should you wait after dying leather to buff off the excess and apply top coats? I've been waiting 3-4 hours between coats then applying a top coat. I'm using Eco Flo dyes and seriously thinking of switching to a spirt base dye. When I apply the top coat (Satin Shene or Super Shene) it tends to "lift" the dye and smear it.

What am I doing wrong? Pics attached for the attache case

Appreciate any/all responses

Jess

Good morning Chief, from the grumpy old man: You are finding out, as have many, that the water based dyes seem to be something less than satisfactory when used. I've been making holsters for around 40 or so years and have used Fiebing's, Angelus, and even Lincoln dyes since I began. I have tried the water based dyes and, as you have found out, wet molding and finishing creates major problems. I personally prefer Fiebing's Pro Oil dye ..... applied with an inexpensive airbrush rig. I find I don't need to buff much at all. I also prefer the acrylic finishes, but use my own favorite 50/50 mix of Mop and Glow (floor polish) and water ........also applied with an airbrush, then followed by a light touch of Kiwi neutral shoe polish, rubbed in with my fingers, and buffed with an old washcloth. I don't use a black dye at all, just my home-made vinegaroon, although many state the Fiebing's USMC Black works quite well. Hope this helps a little. Mike

P.S. The dye and the finish can be applied with a dauber, sponge, or rag ....... I just prefer the airbrush.

[uscglechief]

Mike,

Sure did thanks for the tips! I applied the satin shene with a damp sponge like the directions indicated and I ended up with swirls and whirls in my project. Most of my stuff has been black to match our duty gear and I've used the Fiebings USMC black (spirit based) and liked it very much...I'm putting too much on (using shearing or daubers) I end up with a dry "haze" of dye. I guess I need an air brush.

Thanks Again

Jess

Retired USCG HSC

Good morning Chief, from the grumpy old man: You are finding out, as have many, that the water based dyes seem to be something less than satisfactory when used. I've been making holsters for around 40 or so years and have used Fiebing's, Angelus, and even Lincoln dyes since I began. I have tried the water based dyes and, as you have found out, wet molding and finishing creates major problems. I personally prefer Fiebing's Pro Oil dye ..... applied with an inexpensive airbrush rig. I find I don't need to buff much at all. I also prefer the acrylic finishes, but use my own favorite 50/50 mix of Mop and Glow (floor polish) and water ........also applied with an airbrush, then followed by a light touch of Kiwi neutral shoe polish, rubbed in with my fingers, and buffed with an old washcloth. I don't use a black dye at all, just my home-made vinegaroon, although many state the Fiebing's USMC Black works quite well. Hope this helps a little. Mike

P.S. The dye and the finish can be applied with a dauber, sponge, or rag ....... I just prefer the airbrush.

[katsass]

Mike,

Sure did thanks for the tips! I applied the satin shene with a damp sponge like the directions indicated and I ended up with swirls and whirls in my project. Most of my stuff has been black to match our duty gear and I've used the Fiebings USMC black (spirit based) and liked it very much...I'm putting too much on (using shearing or daubers) I end up with a dry "haze" of dye. I guess I need an air brush.

Thanks Again

Jess

Retired USCG HSC

Chief,when using black dye (as I did years ago) I found it best to apply a light coat in one direction ..... allow to dry, then apply a second at 90 degrees to the first. Allow to dry again. Another coat can be applied at 45 degrees to the last if necessary. Buff and apply your finish ..... with a damp sponge. You shouldn't have a problem......if using spirit dye and an acrylic finish. As said, I use vinegaroon, you just dump your holster into the stuff for a bit, allow to dry, add a shot of neatsfoot oil, allow to soak in and shoot a finish.Here's a pic of a holster I did with 'roon for a patrolman working for a private community security outfit. The pic doesn't do the finish justice. Mike

[TwinOaks]

I can't think of anything that Mike hasn't covered. hmmm....ah. Instead of neatsfoot oil, I rub in a coat of Aussie leather conditioner, and finish off with a dab of sno-seal (picked up @ Academy sports). The finish is absolutely black- the kind of black you find in patent leather items...the deep, hard to see the 'surface' kind of black.

I use the Aussie conditioner instead of neatsfoot only on preference.

On a side note: I found the shelf life of vinegaroon. Apparently after 4 years of sitting under the sink, it only turns stuff gray. The new batch has brewed for two weeks and performs as expected.

[uscglechief]

Very nice, vinegaroon? Is that the dye or the finish you used? Funny I have started to think that dipping my smaller cases into dye would be the easiest . Working on a small latex glove case for myself definitely will use the tips.

Jess

Chief,when using black dye (as I did years ago) I found it best to apply a light coat in one direction ..... allow to dry, then apply a second at 90 degrees to the first. Allow to dry again. Another coat can be applied at 45 degrees to the last if necessary. Buff and apply your finish ..... with a damp sponge. You shouldn't have a problem......if using spirit dye and an acrylic finish. As said, I use vinegaroon, you just dump your holster into the stuff for a bit, allow to dry, add a shot of neatsfoot oil, allow to soak in and shoot a finish.Here's a pic of a holster I did with 'roon for a patrolman working for a private community security outfit. The pic doesn't do the finish justice. Mike

[uscglechief]

Mike,

Thanks for the input and tips. Finding out there is waaaaay more to this dying leather than I had originally thought. I asked Mike to...so I'll ask you as well....vinegaroon?

Jess

I can't think of anything that Mike hasn't covered. hmmm....ah. Instead of neatsfoot oil, I rub in a coat of Aussie leather conditioner, and finish off with a dab of sno-seal (picked up @ Academy sports). The finish is absolutely black- the kind of black you find in patent leather items...the deep, hard to see the 'surface' kind of black.

I use the Aussie conditioner instead of neatsfoot only on preference.

On a side note: I found the shelf life of vinegaroon. Apparently after 4 years of sitting under the sink, it only turns stuff gray. The new batch has brewed for two weeks and performs as expected.

[katsass]

Very nice, vinegaroon? Is that the dye or the finish you used? Funny I have started to think that dipping my smaller cases into dye would be the easiest . Working on a small latex glove case for myself definitely will use the tips.

Jess

Jess, vinegaroon is a home-made substance that turns leather black...all the way through. It is an old (16th century or older) way to blacken leather. To make, I bought a one gallon jug of cheap vinegar and a wad of 0000 steel wool. I burned the wool (to get all oil or wax off) over the open burner on the stove, (Ma wasn't too happy; I could have used the propane torch in the shop ,but it was cold out there.) cut each pad into strips narrow enough to get through the narrow top of the jug of vinegar, and stuffed about four pads of them into the jug. Then cut a small hole in the plastic top of the jug (to vent gasses) and set it out in my shop for a couple of weeks, or a little more.(Then cleaned up the kitchen) After that I strained the stuff through a couple of layers of cheese cloth and, BINGO, vinegaroon (iron acetate). You just soak the leather in it for a couple of minutes and watch it turn black. A light coat of neatsfoot oil enhances it, followed by a shot of finish. Dipping takes a bit of dye and is more expensive. Yes use gloves either way. Mike

[katsass]

I can't think of anything that Mike hasn't covered. hmmm....ah. Instead of neatsfoot oil, I rub in a coat of Aussie leather conditioner, and finish off with a dab of sno-seal (picked up @ Academy sports). The finish is absolutely black- the kind of black you find in patent leather items...the deep, hard to see the 'surface' kind of black.

I use the Aussie conditioner instead of neatsfoot only on preference.

On a side note: I found the shelf life of vinegaroon. Apparently after 4 years of sitting under the sink, it only turns stuff gray. The new batch has brewed for two weeks and performs as expected.

Mike, I have found that about once a year I'll pour off about a quart of the stuff, add a quart of fresh vinegar and a full pad of 0000 steel wool to refresh my 'roon. Seems to work well. Mike

[uscglechief]

Mike,

I need to get a sewing machine...that stitching looks awesome. After you have cased the leather do you just wrap the gun in saran wrap to protect it from the dampness ?? Does that have your homemade mix of mop and glow and water?

Jess

Very nice, vinegaroon? Is that the dye or the finish you used? Funny I have started to think that dipping my smaller cases into dye would be the easiest . Working on a small latex glove case for myself definitely will use the tips.

Jess