First Pancake Holster....plus A Few Design Questions

[nas]

This is my first pancake holster for my xdM, third total. There really aren't that many holsters on the market for this gun so it was one of my inspirations, also my Kimber Solo which has no holsters, to try my hand at leatherwork. I started out with kydex, which has its place, but I prefer the look and feel Leather. I have made two IWBs, one for Solo and one for my 1911, from some of the tooling leather pieces from hobby lobby (4-5oz) just to see if it was something that I wanted to look more in too, an man do I love it.

This holster is made from 6-7oz from zack white. I Dyed it first dark brown, then black using fieblings oil dye and resolene finish. I used bees wax and a combination of a wooden dowel and a burnishing wheel for the edges.

What I need to improve on:

grooving: it is hard to get the groove perfect when going around curved edges.

stitch holes: i lay them out with the tool, use the awl to mark them, and then hand drill them, i just got a drill press mount for my drill so the holes should be better on the next few. since the drill will be perfectly perpendicular. the holes on the front are fine but the rear ones arent perftectly in line since the drill bit wasnt going through at the same angle every time.

stitching: i am hand stitching and my consistance is getting better each time.

belt slots: i used a 3/8" hole punch and 1 1/2" chisel which worked well, but the holes needed to be just a little further apart for the 1 1/2" chisel.

burnishing: this is definitely an art form in its self. and i really need practice. i used bees wax on the edge and then after dying i used the wood dowel in a drill and also a burnishing wheel that just looks like a nylon pully. this one is better than my two previous.

DESIGN QUESTION:

I would like to make a pancake holster that is flat on the back and molded on the front. i have one of these for my 1911 from one of the "retail" leather holster companies. this design snugs closer to the body for me and is more concealable. i was attempting this first but i couldnt really figure out the best way to go about cutting, molding and stitching one like this.

Any input is greatly appreciated,

Nick

Edited June 23, 2011 by nas

[Wareagle50]

Nas, I think you did an awesome job. I wish I could answer your questions but youre a more advanced holstermaker than I am.

[TwinOaks]

Nas, it looks pretty good for a third holster. Somebody's been reading leatherworker......

If I may.....You're pulling the stitches too tight and/or sewing with the leather too wet. That's what's causing the puckering. Stop using the drill press. Don't drill holes in leather. It removes leather by tearing it and the stitch holes will not be able to close up like they do with an awl. If you're gonna hand sew, do it right. Now, if you want to mount an awl needle in the press (not running) and use it like that I guess it'd be okay....but no more drill bits.

Read Bob (Hidepounder) Park's tutorial on edges. It's in the 'How do I do that?' section.

To make the holster molded on only one side, lay out and cut out the back (leave a little extra room on the edges...you can always trim). Glue one side (let dry) , then pull a little 'dart' in the leather. 'V' shaped a little to allow for the stretching. Once you've got the dart pulled in, mark the other side of the holster, cut and glue. You should have a holster shaped thingy, with a big, ugly, unformed hump in the middle. [ note: you may need to try a couple of times to get the dart the right size] Go ahead and stitch the perimeter. Now, ONLY WET THE FRONT for molding. Insert gun/dummy gun and start stretching the leather. Here's a really valuable tip, pay attention to this part---> When you start molding, put the whole thing in a large plastic bag- I like the gallon sized ziploc style. The plastic will let you use your molding tools without putting friction marks on the holster. If you've got some leatherworking tools that have the round handle, ROLL it around the outline to get a good base for your mold lines. As the leather dries and will hold the shape, start using a tighter radius tool to press the leather down. Start with a larger radius tool and work the leather down, stretching it as you go. When you've got it almost there, you can move to a spoon (from the silverware drawer) so you can press the corners in by rolling/rotating the spoon around the gun. Now, take your wing dividers (or compass from the back to school department) and trace the line of the gun for your stitch line.

[nas]

Thanks Mike!

I guess its time for a new awl. I read in a tutorial somewhere about the drill press but I can see how just the awl will give a cleaner look. So...no more drill press.

Probably in the same tutorial I read about pulling the stitches tight, I guess I am pulling too tight.

I have read the burnishing tutorial. I need to read it a few more times.

The process I have been using is

Cutting

Stitch lay out

Stitching

Molding

Burnishing

Dye

Re burnidhing (I am kinda unsure about when to wax the edge.)

Thanks for the info on the flat back pancake. Ill try it soon.

Edited June 23, 2011 by nas

[Big O]

After you burnish, are you finding a raised edge all along where you burnished, on both sides? I think I'm seeing that in the pictures, but it's hard to be sure.

If so, you might consider getting an edger (pretty cheap, simple hand tool), and use it at some point before you burnish. It takes the "corner" off your edges, and makes it possible/easier to get a rounded edge.

[nas]

i actually did bevel the edge at the time i was sanding the sides so they are even. i think the mushrooming look to the edge was from me pulling the thread too tight along with the tools i used to do the burnishing and i also think the leather was still a little too damp when i did start to burnish the edge. i am still looking for the right tool to burnish with. the burnishing wheel i got from zack white worked good on the single layer leather but is a little narrow for two layers to fit in it. it is basically just a nylon pulley. i am gonna look around to see if i can find the next size up "pulley" that will work.

would it be best to burnish just prior to finish coat after the dye is fully dry? would i then wax the edge may a few drops of water then burnish while the leather is relatively stiff?

[okie44]

I have made a few holsters that are flat on the back, and molded on the outside. I usually allow more leather on the front side. I make the back stitch line the size of the gun outline. I allow about the thickness of the gun, added to the front, then wet mold only the front side. This allows the front to stretch, and and leaves the back flat. That may not be the only way to do it, but it works for me. Hope this helps.

[Big O]

My usual workflow is:

Cut pieces

Mark stitch lines and belt slots

Punch & cut belt slots, stamp maker mark and any embellishments

Edge

Burnish

Make stitching grooves

Dye & let dry

Glue & let dry

Stitch

Wet, burnish again, mold

Force-dry in highly technical cardboard box and hair dryer contraption for 30 minutes

Remove pistol

Air dry for two days

Touch up dye if need be

Burnish again if need be, and apply edge dressing if I'm not satisfied

Apply finish

Air dry for 2 more days

[nas]

My usual workflow is:

Cut pieces

Mark stitch lines and belt slots

Punch & cut belt slots, stamp maker mark and any embellishments

Edge

Burnish

Make stitching grooves

Dye & let dry

Glue & let dry

Stitch

Wet, burnish again, mold

Force-dry in highly technical cardboard box and hair dryer contraption for 30 minutes

Remove pistol

Air dry for two days

Touch up dye if need be

Burnish again if need be, and apply edge dressing if I'm not satisfied

Apply finish

Air dry for 2 more days

what tool/materials do you use for burnishing.

[Big O]

I use one of Spinner's cocobolo Dremel burnishers with water the first time and gum tragacanth after that.

Sometimes, when my Dremel craps out and I'm too impatient to wait for the battery to charge back up, I use the side of a Sharpie marker.

[Haystacker]

Since it looks like you are going to do a bunch of holsters I'll chime in on how I do holster edges.

Once the holster is sewn, I hit the edges with 80 grit sand paper on a 4x36 inch belt sander that my son in law bought me from Harbor Freight. Once the edges are even, I wet the edges. Then I hit the edges again on the belt sander with 120 grit paper.

Next, I edge. Then I dampen the edges again and slick the edges with glycerin bar saddle soap.

Next step is to use denim or canvas rubbed briskly on the edges. For this, I set up my drill press chucked with a spool that I loosely wrapped with denim. I think I get a better burnish mechanically than by hand. I used to chuck a wooden drawer nob in the drill press and burnish more, but I really don't think it improves over the denim.

I usually dye the edges after forming. I use a 1 inch foam brush to dye the edges if I want a different color than the holster body.

I do not use any wax on the edges anymore. I could never really stop the edges from rubbing off or bleeding when I used wax or whatever.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

[nas]

thanks for the info, i am still trying to figure out what will work best for me. i purchased on of the coco-bola burnishers and also have tried with a felt polishing pad on my dremel which worked really well. check out my 1911 iwb thread, it still needs improvement but i believe it is 100% better than this xdm. we'll have to see how number five turns out. learning more and more about this art but much more togo.