Members TimG Posted July 11, 2011 Members Report Posted July 11, 2011 First off, howdy all! This is my first post since signing up. I just finished making my first leather project! I made an IWB holster for a newly acquired Ruger P345 that also holds my 5.11 tactical knife. I think I did pretty well for my first time. I made the pattern and all fits well I just had a couple of things that I ended up doing in hindsight that would have looked better if part of the original design. I was going to use standard leather belt loops but did not cut the body high enough for where I wanted them so I added the kydex clips after the fact. Also added a kydex piece to reinforce the holster mouth. Could look much cleaner if that had been part of the actual design. Next iteration should look much better. This has proved to be very comfortable and functional. It holds this fairly heavy weapon quite comfortable. My main issue though is I dyed it and let it dry. I put on one coat of pure NeatsFoot oil and let it dry. Then I applied a few coats of Super Sheen and let it dry. It has been like 4 days now and I still get dye from the holster on the inside of my clothing. Is this normal? Quote
Members Rayban Posted July 11, 2011 Members Report Posted July 11, 2011 I had problem similar til I started using Feibings Pro Oil dye, then Resoline to seal/finish it.......no more rub off. Quote
Members TimG Posted July 11, 2011 Author Members Report Posted July 11, 2011 I had problem similar til I started using Feibings Pro Oil dye, then Resoline to seal/finish it.......no more rub off. Not heard of Resoline...guess I could look into that. Can I still apply that after everything else I've put on it or do I need to use something to remove some of the finish I've put on? I did use Feibings Oil dye but finished with Super Sheen. Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted July 11, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted July 11, 2011 Black dye is notorious for having a lot of rub-off. Here's how to fix it- buff, buff, buff, buff, buff....you get the idea....until no more comes off on your buffing rag. Once you've done that, you need to seal the leather. There's quite a few products for that, but I tend to favor Resolene.....or Katsass' homemade version of the stuff (Mop-n-glo cut 50/50 w/ water, and sprayed on). Apply a thin coat, LET DRY, buff, apply another coat. If you're set on Black for the color, type "Vinegaroon" in the search box (top right of screen) and enjoy some reading. It's the best black I've found, is permanent, doesn't rub off once dry, and is self finishing. Quote
Members katsass Posted July 11, 2011 Members Report Posted July 11, 2011 I'm quite sure that I don't even own a jug of any black dye any longer. If it's going to be black, it'll get that way with vinegaroon, For other colors I use Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes and some denatured alcohol. I also find i use very little dye full strength any longer, and (possibly) because of this there is little to nothing to buff off prior to sealing/finishing. Mike Quote
Members TimG Posted July 11, 2011 Author Members Report Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for all the replies. I'll definitely check out some of this vinegaroon. Do you have to make it yourself or can it be purchased? Sounds like its buffing time for me for now.... Quote
Members Wareagle50 Posted July 12, 2011 Members Report Posted July 12, 2011 Im no expert Tim, but I think its made with vinegar and fine steel wool. Quote
Members ebarber Posted July 13, 2011 Members Report Posted July 13, 2011 I used to have that same problem when I started out. I found my problem was that I was letting it soak in my dye to long. I dip mine in a vat for about 3 seconds (for black) blot it and let it dry. Different colors at different counts for different shades. I use an alcohol based dye so Im not sure if oil would be different. After drying I buff buff buff with a buffer, stitch, form, work my edges then buff again. At this point it shines so much it looks like its finished. Then as the last step I spray it (seal). Quote
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