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Well, I've made a few holsters so far, and each one keeps getting better. My Dad wanted one for his Beretta .25, so I made that for him today. I had a few minor issues, but everything worked out to make a decent holster. This is just a basic, nothing fancy OWB holster. He just wanted something comfortable to hold his little mouse gun. lol. At this point I'm still learning, so some critiquing is more than welcome. It's not near as light colored as it looks in the photos, though.

1010365.jpg

1010364.jpg

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you did a good job. im not relly qualified to critique.

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Well, I've made a few holsters so far, and each one keeps getting better. My Dad wanted one for his Beretta .25, so I made that for him today. I had a few minor issues, but everything worked out to make a decent holster. This is just a basic, nothing fancy OWB holster. He just wanted something comfortable to hold his little mouse gun. lol. At this point I'm still learning, so some critiquing is more than welcome. It's not near as light colored as it looks in the photos, though.

1010365.jpg

1010364.jpg

I'm just starting down this holster making path myself (first post yay!). The work looks nice. I do have a question though about the molding around the trigger. Should it be molded *inside* the trigger guard like that? Wouldn't that cause a high risk of discharge if your father pushed the gun into the holster a bit too far, or somebody slapped the gun down into the holster (in any way, intentional or not)? Or perhaps it doesn't extend back that far, it's hard to tell from the pics. In any event, great job! :)

Edited by SonOfLiberty

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I'm just starting down this holster making path myself (first post yay!). The work looks nice. I do have a question though about the molding around the trigger. Should it be molded *inside* the trigger guard like that? Wouldn't that cause a high risk of discharge if your father pushed the gun into the holster a bit too far, or somebody slapped the gun down into the holster (in any way, intentional or not)?

That's pretty much just a surface mark. Gives it a little more detail. It doesn't push down into the trigger guard at all.

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Oh, very good then, I see! Well done.

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I'm just starting down this holster making path myself (first post yay!). The work looks nice. I do have a question though about the molding around the trigger. Should it be molded *inside* the trigger guard like that? Wouldn't that cause a high risk of discharge if your father pushed the gun into the holster a bit too far, or somebody slapped the gun down into the holster (in any way, intentional or not)? Or perhaps it doesn't extend back that far, it's hard to tell from the pics. In any event, great job! :)

Because of the way that the gun enters the holster and is stopped soon after passing the inner molded area of the trigger guard, there is little chance the trigger would be effected. If there was enough room in the holster for the gun to continue down far enough the inner molding *'could'* catch, but I would still find that unlikely. Molding in the trigger guard is another way to add retention to the holster.

Now, having said that, I did see somewhere where a guy CCW'ing caught his trigger on a edge of the holster and as he sat down the gun went off, missed him, made a new drain hole in his car. The top edge of the holster was worn, and not firm in holding it's shape. It was a well worn, improperly cared for holster. As he sat down the top edge formed a "V" the corner of the v contacting the trigger. His body pressing the gun down and "BOOM." The point of the retelling is a reminder, care for your leather, replace it when the leather won't stiffen with proper care. It's great when a holster lasts a lifetime. But a little impractical to think they all will.

As far as critique's. I remember from my fist days being able to see the differences between my holsters and the famous makers. What took me a long time was what could I do to get mine a little closer to that look.

So,

after you stitch, take some sand paper to the edge, get it nice and uniform, then get it damp and run and edge slicker (flat plastic or boning tool) over it till it looks like glass, Search the "How it's Done" section for a sticky on edging. In there you will fine another thread on using saddle soap instead of water. I have used both, like them both. Don't neglect the belt loops. Attention to detail is what makes the difference between a good holster and a great one.

One more thing, it might take a little trial and error, but, when making a gun specific holster, try to use the specific gun as the guide for the stitch line. From the pictures it kind of looks like you had a pattern IMO that may have been for another generic gun. Maybe not, I can't say for sure, but it looks to me like if you play with that stitch line next to the gun, you will get some better retention by getting to sit a little lower in the holster. Typically I take the gun and set it on the leather, and trace our about 3/8-1/2 inch away from the gun, and run my stitch there... I've made bunches of mistakes. even after 6 years I don't claim to be very good at this.

Good luck, keep it up.

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Because of the way that the gun enters the holster and is stopped soon after passing the inner molded area of the trigger guard, there is little chance the trigger would be effected. If there was enough room in the holster for the gun to continue down far enough the inner molding *'could'* catch, but I would still find that unlikely. Molding in the trigger guard is another way to add retention to the holster.

Now, having said that, I did see somewhere where a guy CCW'ing caught his trigger on a edge of the holster and as he sat down the gun went off, missed him, made a new drain hole in his car. The top edge of the holster was worn, and not firm in holding it's shape. It was a well worn, improperly cared for holster. As he sat down the top edge formed a "V" the corner of the v contacting the trigger. His body pressing the gun down and "BOOM." The point of the retelling is a reminder, care for your leather, replace it when the leather won't stiffen with proper care. It's great when a holster lasts a lifetime. But a little impractical to think they all will.

As far as critique's. I remember from my fist days being able to see the differences between my holsters and the famous makers. What took me a long time was what could I do to get mine a little closer to that look.

So,

after you stitch, take some sand paper to the edge, get it nice and uniform, then get it damp and run and edge slicker (flat plastic or boning tool) over it till it looks like glass, Search the "How it's Done" section for a sticky on edging. In there you will fine another thread on using saddle soap instead of water. I have used both, like them both. Don't neglect the belt loops. Attention to detail is what makes the difference between a good holster and a great one.

One more thing, it might take a little trial and error, but, when making a gun specific holster, try to use the specific gun as the guide for the stitch line. From the pictures it kind of looks like you had a pattern IMO that may have been for another generic gun. Maybe not, I can't say for sure, but it looks to me like if you play with that stitch line next to the gun, you will get some better retention by getting to sit a little lower in the holster. Typically I take the gun and set it on the leather, and trace our about 3/8-1/2 inch away from the gun, and run my stitch there... I've made bunches of mistakes. even after 6 years I don't claim to be very good at this.

Good luck, keep it up.

I actually did use the gun as a pattern, but I didn't add enough room in front of the trigger guard when I traced it. It does hold very well, though so it worked out OK in the end. Since it's such a light gun, it didn't throw it off balance at all. Live and learn, right?

Thanks for the tips!

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exactly, live and learn. Looking forward to seeing your next one.

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One thing that jumps out at me is how high the gun rides in relation to the belt line. This might be floppy, even for a small gun like that. Little if any of the gun is at or below the belt line. with this holster there is still enough room for the gun to go further down into the holster so your holster will conceal well. For stability, the belt line should be as close to center on the gun as possible.

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One thing that jumps out at me is how high the gun rides in relation to the belt line. This might be floppy, even for a small gun like that. Little if any of the gun is at or below the belt line. with this holster there is still enough room for the gun to go further down into the holster so your holster will conceal well. For stability, the belt line should be as close to center on the gun as possible.

It's actually very stable. I didn't add enough room in front of the trigger guard when I made the pattern. It doesn't go in as far as I'd like, but it is functional.

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