mlapaglia Posted August 1, 2011 Report Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) This is my second attempt at my first holster pattern. This will be my first holster I build once the leather is here later this week. I spent a good portion of this weekend looking at the site and reading about pancake holsters. That research and the comments made to my post in the pattern forum lead me to make some changes to the original design. I am still not sure about the clearance between the rear of the holster and the butt of the gun. I may have to change that on the fly. I also need to fix all the pointed corners with curves. Its for a HK USP 9. I have a Airsoft Duplicate to use as a mold. I have a single shoulder on order 6-7oz leather. Im not sure if I will line it yet or not. Please feel free to make comments, suggestions, etc. The stitch lines are on the pattern. They will be slightly revised for the edge stitching before I actually put them in. The third photo is of the original pattern I made. Comments and critiques welcome. (and yes, as a retired design engineer I tend to over think all my projects. ) Edited August 1, 2011 by mlapaglia Quote
Members nas Posted August 1, 2011 Members Report Posted August 1, 2011 i like to start my patterns on copy paper. you can actually wrap it around the gun to see where your stitch lines wind up, just remeber to consider the thickness of the leather and also what you plan to use for a sight channel, like a dowel rod, etc. plus it is easy to cut and is cheap. after i have made a holster and the pattern worked out good i will transfer it to something thicker like card stock. cardboad doesnt really work good for keeping its edge. also keep in mind where the mag release is so the sweat shield, if you do one doesnt interfere and pop loose you mag. i also have found that you dont really need to be too conservative with the distance of the stitch lines from the gun. if it is a little tight at first it isnt a problem because the leather will stretch and will fit good in the end. i have found that a little tight is better than a little lose. all this is just from my limited experience on only a handful of holsters. good luck! Quote
Lobo Posted August 2, 2011 Report Posted August 2, 2011 I recommend against sharp corners on a holster meant for close concealed carry. Rounded edges are much more comfortable in use and have less tendency to become frayed and worn quickly. Your belt slots are at an angle to the belt, which is fine but you must remember that the belt passes through in a straight line. Slots cut to belt size, but laid out at an angle, will not fit the belt. I always draw in two parallel lines on my patterns to indicate the belt location and width, then mark and cut the slots to fit properly. Best regards. Quote
Denster Posted August 2, 2011 Report Posted August 2, 2011 I second what Lobo said about the sharp corners not just from a practical view but aestheticallly the eye like to follow curves. Also you may want to consider lining the holster. The H&K is a big gun and 6/7 Oz is a little on the light side for a pancake design. Quote
mlapaglia Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Posted August 2, 2011 I recommend against sharp corners on a holster meant for close concealed carry. Rounded edges are much more comfortable in use and have less tendency to become frayed and worn quickly. Your belt slots are at an angle to the belt, which is fine but you must remember that the belt passes through in a straight line. Slots cut to belt size, but laid out at an angle, will not fit the belt. I always draw in two parallel lines on my patterns to indicate the belt location and width, then mark and cut the slots to fit properly. Best regards. Lobo, I did exactly that. I laid out two parallel lines 1 3/4 inches apart, its for a 1.5 inch belt. Then drew the slots so that they fit across the the lines. I found that in a post on this forum. I've done a LOT of reading the last few days. I second what Lobo said about the sharp corners not just from a practical view but aestheticallly the eye like to follow curves. Also you may want to consider lining the holster. The H&K is a big gun and 6/7 Oz is a little on the light side for a pancake design. Denster, I agree about the corners and they were rounded about an hour after I posted the photo. It looks much better. I agree about lining it. I have some 2-3oz or some 3-4oz I can use to line it. The good thing is this is just a practice piece. I am hoping it comes out nice but if I totally mess it up it all I'm out is the leather and the experience I gain will be worth the cost of the leather. Thanks to everyone who commented. I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge that I have been able to tap into. One more question, I plan to saddle stich this. I have some waxed thread from Tandy, Item #11207-01, and some artificial sinew. If we ignore the color issue for the moment is one better than the other? Quote
Denster Posted August 2, 2011 Report Posted August 2, 2011 I would use the waxed thread. Artificial sinew has it's uses but really looks out of place on a holster. Quote
Members Reaper Posted August 11, 2011 Members Report Posted August 11, 2011 mlapaglia, something you might consider is checking your local hobby shop, art store or drafting shop. Look for the Curves and other templates. Your getting it down and it takes time so keep on keeping on with it. Something else you might consider is the lower grade shoulders while teaching yourself the do's and don'ts. Helps keep costs down and you still get a good looking holster, but if you muff up it doesn't hurt the pocket so much. I went through a full side of Herman Oak and it seems every holster or mag pouch ended up changing in the middle because The design just didn't work like I thought it would. I wish I had that Side back now.. lol Quote
mlapaglia Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Posted August 12, 2011 mlapaglia, something you might consider is checking your local hobby shop, art store or drafting shop. Look for the Curves and other templates. Your getting it down and it takes time so keep on keeping on with it. Something else you might consider is the lower grade shoulders while teaching yourself the do's and don'ts. Helps keep costs down and you still get a good looking holster, but if you muff up it doesn't hurt the pocket so much. I went through a full side of Herman Oak and it seems every holster or mag pouch ended up changing in the middle because The design just didn't work like I thought it would. I wish I had that Side back now.. lol Thanks, I got a set of french curves after I posted this version. They are a big help. Tandy has a single shoulder on sale 6/7oz for 21.99. I bought one for that exact reason. I can get 2-3 holsters out of it. Hopefully by the time its gone I will be comfortable making them and can get some good leather. Michael Quote
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