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What would be the best glue to use for glueing a pancack style holster together before stitching? I was considering Gorilla Glue but thought I'd see if there is a better type for use with leather.

Thanks

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What would be the best glue to use for glueing a pancack style holster together before stitching? I was considering Gorilla Glue but thought I'd see if there is a better type for use with leather.

Thanks

Contact Cement. I use Weldwood brand. Coat both sides, let dry and put together. Make sure you have it lined up before it touches. Once it is in place it will not be easy to move it you can do it at all.

The other thing I have used is Leather weld from Tandy. It looks like elmers but is a strong bond. You need to clamp it and let it dry. I prefer contact cement.

Michael.

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Make sure it isnt water based. I use pliobond contact cement simply because its what the local hardware has.

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Another Weldwood user here, gel formula......you can find it at Lowes and Home Depot.

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Weldwood. I bought the little bottle with a brush in the cap, then I bought a quart in the can. I refill the little bottle from the can, and I've had it for quite a while now. Spread it as thin as you can on both pieces, let it get tacky and press together. This does require exact placement, because once it's set up a tack and put together....it's done. You can also put the pieces together while it's still 'wet' and have a little bit of wiggle room, but not much. Once this stuff dries, you'll actually be destroying leather fiber to get it apart. Avoid getting it on you, and have good ventilation. If the leather starts talking to you, put the glue away and move to fresh air.

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A trick to use with contact cement to get the parts lined up is to use wax paper. I used to do this when I was laminating Formica to MDF.

Coat both sides as usual. When they are ready to bond, cover the bottom piece with wax paper. Set the top piece on and line it up as you want it. Now, slightly lift one edge of the top piece, maintaing your position, and fold back a corner of the wax paper, exposing part of the bottom piece. Carefully maintain your lined-up parts and let the top piece settle gently on the exposed piece. I say gently because if it is not lined-up, you have a chance to pull it off. Once you are satisfied that it is lined-up, press the top piece hard enough to bond to the bottom piece. Be careful, don't trap the wax paper in there.

Let's say you had "U" or "V" shaped parts. Do the top end of one side of the U, then expose the other top side of the U and bond that side. Now you can slowly slide the wax paper out, walking your finger down the edges and bonding them as you go. That's just an example, do it the way it makes the most sense or is the most appropriate for your situation.

I hope that made sense.

Nick

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I use Weldwood too although last time I ordered Masters from Springfield because I had to place an order anyway, it's about the same as Weldwood and costs twice as much. Is anyone thinning the Weldwood, if so what are you using?

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I use Weldwood too although last time I ordered Masters from Springfield because I had to place an order anyway, it's about the same as Weldwood and costs twice as much. Is anyone thinning the Weldwood, if so what are you using?

I've thinned Weldwood using the generic Cement Thinner from Tandy. There isn't any identification as to what the thinner is on the packaging, but I suspect it's MEK.

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Tandy's leather glue. Cheap and works great. Semper-fi Mike

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Barge, Masters or Weldwood!

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If the leather starts talking to you, put the glue away and move to fresh air.

LOL!

Barge here as well.

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Barge, Masters or Weldwood!

I doubt very seriously that any one is any different than the other....they all do the same job.

I've glued flesh to flesh with Weldwood and needed pliers to take them apart....and then destroyed the leather doing it......what more do you need it to do?

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The only difference I've seen between Barges and Weldwood is that the Barges seemed to thicken and get "stringy" a lot faster. The climate might have something to do with that. My leather shop is my garage, which is over 100° during the day. Barges would start to thicken and get really messy about the third or fourth time I opened the can. Adding thinner just seemed to make it worse, as far as it being stringy. Weldwood seems to keep the same relative viscosity for a lot longer, and it never really gets "stringy" like Barges. It could all be temperature related, but unfortunately, that's all I have to work from.

One other thing I noticed. I have glued two pieces together with Barges, let them sit 20 - 30 minutes, then peeled them apart. I can't do that with Weldwood. It might be a stronger bond, or it might just be that it cures more quickly, I really don't know. Just an observation.

I think they will all do the job intended.

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Barge contact cement for me. I have tired the weldwood and didn't have much luck with it. If you it to dry quicker use a hair dryer and blow on the glued piece. I keep one at the end of my bench and use it mostly in the winter time when the glue is slower to dry.

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Anything Petronio: Master, Petronio, Renia Colle de Cologne, Renia Multi Colle. They all work. You can also use Fiebing's Tanner's Bond, if you prefer PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate, white glue), it works well also, but you have to clamp it till it dries.

Art

What would be the best glue to use for glueing a pancack style holster together before stitching? I was considering Gorilla Glue but thought I'd see if there is a better type for use with leather.

Thanks

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