mlapaglia Posted September 9, 2011 Report Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) I have the Tandy Diamond Awl that goes into the handle with the metal chuck. I need to sharpen it and want to know if I should just sharpen the first 1/4", like it currently is or sharpen both sides all the way down. Any help or information is appreciated. Michael Edited September 9, 2011 by mlapaglia Quote The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering. Bruce Lee
JohnD Posted September 10, 2011 Report Posted September 10, 2011 I would usually only sharpen tip and polish the whole blade. I tried a search but couldn't find it, but somewhere on here is a lengthy thread(one of many, I'm sure), with a ton of info on awl blades and hand sewing. I forget who wrote it and I apologize for not being able to credit the author, but it was said that an effective awl shape would be a sharpened diamond shaped tip with an oval or oblong shaft. Both the tip and the shaft should be highly polished. Only the tip needs to cut the leather. Although I should add: I bought an awl blade from Bob Douglass a few years back and have only had to polish it every once in a while. Worth every penny. Hope this helps, Quote (rdb):God looked down at the world, and said "See, right there in Witchita, next to the railroad tracks, I didn't put enough dandelions".
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted September 10, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted September 10, 2011 Don't over sharpen the sides of the awl. The shape pushes the leather out of the way when you make the hole, and then the leather closes up around the thread. If you cut the leather (sharpened sides) the hole won't close up as much. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Moderator bruce johnson Posted September 10, 2011 Moderator Report Posted September 10, 2011 Several years ago I had the good fortune to have an older Irish harnessmaker spent the afternoon with me. The first thing he did was to take a shoeing rasp to my stitching horse to properly shape the ends for closer sewing. Then he took my awls and sorted through them. He picked about 5 out that were OK to his purposes, and went to sharpening. Muscle memory and all that, but about one minute each on the stones going through the grits. He raised a bur edge on the actute angles of the diamonds almost to where the taper leveled out. Stropped the bur off and then used that edge to cut leather as a test. Used them like a knife on a the edge of a piece of skirting. They sliced like a good knife. I just thought I knew how sharp they were supposed to be before that. THAT was a lesson learned. One bad awl he worked into a round point to use for oversewing with less chance of cutting the existing threads. The rest went to sharp points for a game of "awl darts". . Quote Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
mlapaglia Posted September 10, 2011 Author Report Posted September 10, 2011 I would usually only sharpen tip and polish the whole blade. I tried a search but couldn't find it, but somewhere on here is a lengthy thread(one of many, I'm sure), with a ton of info on awl blades and hand sewing. I forget who wrote it and I apologize for not being able to credit the author, but it was said that an effective awl shape would be a sharpened diamond shaped tip with an oval or oblong shaft. Both the tip and the shaft should be highly polished. Only the tip needs to cut the leather. Although I should add: I bought an awl blade from Bob Douglass a few years back and have only had to polish it every once in a while. Worth every penny. Hope this helps, Once I can afford it I need to get one from Bob Douglass. Thanks. Don't over sharpen the sides of the awl. The shape pushes the leather out of the way when you make the hole, and then the leather closes up around the thread. If you cut the leather (sharpened sides) the hole won't close up as much. That was the thought that made me question sharpening the edges. Thanks for the info. Several years ago I had the good fortune to have an older Irish harnessmaker spent the afternoon with me. The first thing he did was to take a shoeing rasp to my stitching horse to properly shape the ends for closer sewing. Then he took my awls and sorted through them. He picked about 5 out that were OK to his purposes, and went to sharpening. Muscle memory and all that, but about one minute each on the stones going through the grits. He raised a bur edge on the actute angles of the diamonds almost to where the taper leveled out. Stropped the bur off and then used that edge to cut leather as a test. Used them like a knife on a the edge of a piece of skirting. They sliced like a good knife. I just thought I knew how sharp they were supposed to be before that. THAT was a lesson learned. One bad awl he worked into a round point to use for oversewing with less chance of cutting the existing threads. The rest went to sharp points for a game of "awl darts". . Great story. Id love to be able to "Sit at the feet" of someone who has done this for years. You were really lucky to have that chance. Quote The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering. Bruce Lee
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted September 10, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted September 10, 2011 As I've said several times on here, your awl point should be sharp enough to get at least halfway through your finger before you feel it. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
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