markush Report post Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) It's an OWB for a J-Frame. Aside from not knowing how to space the stitch lines (thanks to katsass for clearing that part up) I also had major movement of the right side belt loop tab when I wet molded. In the second pic you can see it moved or angled up about a half inch! How can I insure that the tabs are perpendicular after molding? Edited September 9, 2011 by markush Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted September 9, 2011 I'm pretty sure that's caused by the deformation of the nice 2D pattern by sticking a gun in it and making it 3D. I struggled with the very same thing with sweat shields and belt slots on Avenger holsters. You might do what I did - learn from the experience and...... Note to self: on the pattern, move the right belt loop down 1/2 inch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markush Report post Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) I'm pretty sure that's caused by the deformation of the nice 2D pattern by sticking a gun in it and making it 3D. I struggled with the very same thing with sweat shields and belt slots on Avenger holsters. You might do what I did - learn from the experience and...... Note to self: on the pattern, move the right belt loop down 1/2 inch. HaHa you know, that was actually the first thing I thought of...and if it moved straight up a 1/2" I'd just redraw it and be happy. But, it angled itself skyward all goofy and I was hoping there would be a less...mcgyverish way to fix it. Looking at my quick rendition of the "corrected" pattern you'll understand why I was hoping there would be a better way. I'd have to start with something like this...and surely the professionals don't do it this way do they? Edited September 9, 2011 by markush Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted September 9, 2011 Too radical. MUCH more of an angle than necessary to correct the minimal change in angle. Also, it completely fails to address the simple vertical shift. Just keep that tab more-or-less horizontal, but move it down on the pattern about 1/2 inch. About even with the stitch line corner, I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markush Report post Posted September 9, 2011 I did draw it a little overboard to illustrate. But it actually did angle up more then you can see. I was able to straighten the angle of the tab somewhat after molding by trimming it a bit. But thank you! I will drop that tab and give it a slight angle and see what happens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) From the grumpy one: Just why do you insist on making yourself extra work? Ever since the Civil war folks been making great wearing and working belt holsters with a simple fold-over integral belt loop. Big un's, long un's, little un's, short un's and fancy or plain un's. It just don't make a hell of a lot of sense to me ..... ain't knocking it ....just don't understand it. Mike P.S. You sure that you got cant on that thing right? Edited September 9, 2011 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted September 10, 2011 P.S. You sure that you got cant on that thing right? Now that you mention it.....it does look a bit too close to vertical for a crossdraw...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) Now that you mention it.....it does look a bit too close to vertical for a crossdraw...... IF...it's a cross draw ..... and it ain't going to conceal well eitherl. Mike Edited September 10, 2011 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markush Report post Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) Yeah crossdraw. It's as much cant as I could do and not run into the belt loop with my knuckles on the draw. The gun was supposed to sit down into the holster another 1/4", improper stitch spacing stopped it from going any farther. It was my very first holster guys, I'm still learning. It actually conceals fairly well with my extra large gut. As to not making a fold over...I figure if i'm making it for myself I may as well try to make something I like the looks of and I wanted an easy on and off, not something I had to weave onto a belt. And besides, I've never been one to go along with the crowd...it doesn't matter that it may be eaiser or more "acceptable"...I try to do my own thing. But then of course I run into problems like with this holster...but hey, at least I can say I tried to be creative! Edited September 10, 2011 by markush Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted September 10, 2011 That is some VERY nice work for a FIRST holster! Well done. You might also consider a variation of the Avenger design, getting creative with the belt slot and belt tunnel locations. I've adapted it to an SOB design, and it worked well. Not too sure about the crossdraw, though. I did make one dual-carry Avenger design, that caught a LOT of flak on here. LoL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted September 10, 2011 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27604&st=0&p=173620entry173620 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) Yeah crossdraw. It's as much cant as I could do and not run into the belt loop with my knuckles on the draw. The gun was supposed to sit down into the holster another 1/4", improper stitch spacing stopped it from going any farther. It was my very first holster guys, I'm still learning. It actually conceals fairly well with my extra large gut. As to not making a fold over...I figure if i'm making it for myself I may as well try to make something I like the looks of and I wanted an easy on and off, not something I had to weave onto a belt. And besides, I've never been one to go along with the crowd...it doesn't matter that it may be eaiser or more "acceptable"...I try to do my own thing. But then of course I run into problems like with this holster...but hey, at least I can say I tried to be creative! OK, as said, i'm not knocking your work! HOWEVER, If I came out with descritive terms of 'Beautiful', 'Great', 'Very well done!', etc, I'd ruin my image of being the grumpy one! Well, OK, your stitching is pretty damned well done ...even if in the wrong place, and your molding is also quite well done ..... even if I don't care for it ... (just a personal thing) Keep at it, you have the ability to do some damned good stuff ...down the road a bit. As said by Big O, you might look into the modified avenger or the modified pancake. I personally like both of them and I know that you are up to the job for either ...just think them through, take your time and you'll do well. Mike P.S. Check for a PM Edited September 10, 2011 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizard of tragacanth Report post Posted September 10, 2011 It's a good first prototype. I can see why you would want quick-release on a crossdraw. You would have to take your belt off to put the holster on or take it off. It's a good concept and a nice color too. When you do it over, you might want to consider a body shield to protect your tummy from the hammer. BTW, I have carried a S&W 638 Bodyguard for 5 years, IWB. The holster did not fully cover the alloy frame near the grip and the finish corroded. Yes, I admit that I was negligent in not wiping down my weapon when I put it away every night. Anyway, my point is that any metal parts should be protected from perspiration. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites