Holster Too Tight After Molding

[mlapaglia]

I did a pancake today for a S&W M&P 9mm. I may have done too good a job on the molding around the trigger guard.

I can not pull the holster out. Its that tight. Takes 2 of us to get it separated. While this makes for a safe way to carry a gun it makes it impossible to draw the weapon. The pack side has a gouge line down the middle of the modeled area. That was a mistake but I kept going as this is a practice piece. It looks like a split but is not.

Should I try to spread the tight parts out a little with it dry or should I re-wet those areas and loosen it up some? I posted a few pictures. I have not done the edges or finish yet.

Edited September 10, 2011 by mlapaglia

[Big O]

Given that there's still a little bit of space between the handgun and the stitch line, I'd agree that it's probably the molding that's the problem.

I'd try casing, smoothing it out, and remolding with less (or even NO) emphasis on the trigger guard area. You might lighten up on the ejection port, too, because sometimes that's a factor.

And did you remember to mold in a sight channel for the front sight? Because that can lock a pistol into a holster REALLY well......

(My computer's acting up and I can't get the pictures to expand right now)

[mlapaglia]

Given that there's still a little bit of space between the handgun and the stitch line, I'd agree that it's probably the molding that's the problem.

I'd try casing, smoothing it out, and remolding with less (or even NO) emphasis on the trigger guard area. You might lighten up on the ejection port, too, because sometimes that's a factor.

And did you remember to mold in a sight channel for the front sight? Because that can lock a pistol into a holster REALLY well......

(My computer's acting up and I can't get the pictures to expand right now)

Re: the sight channel, yes I did remember. I have a dowel with a slot cut in it for the front site. I tape it to the gun and use that as my mold point. I agree about the ejection port as well. It looks like it could be loosened up some too.

Ill recase it and see if I can loosen it up. I never thought it could be too tight. That's why I'm still learning.

Thanks

Michael

[Lobo]

Wet-forming a holster involves considerable stretching of the leather fibers. As the leather dries there will be some shrinkage that can cause what you have experienced.

A simple and effective solution is to place the pistol into a plastic bag (freezer bags work well), then force it into the holster and leave it overnight. This will usually result in just the right amount of stretching to permit a good fit with easy draw.

[Shooter McGavin]

Every M&P holster I've ever done locks up tight on me after molding. Doesnt happen with any other gun. I dont mold nearly as tight as you did on the trigger guard.

Put the holster on your belt and try the draw stroke. See what happens.

Sometimes you have to do what Lobo suggested and put it in a plastic bag for a day or two.

[TwinOaks]

Don't mold so closely to the little gaps in the accessory rail. I think if you look in from the muzzle end of the holster, you'll see some fiber tearing at that point. Dampen and smooth out those areas and see how it draws. The area of the trigger guard is large enough to be flexible, so it should give a bit. Molding the leather into those little gaps in the rail are what's giving you the probelems, IMO.

[katsass]

Looks kinda like you already have a finish on it, if so you might try stuffing a damp (not soppy wet) pretty warm washcloth down in it for a short time .... just a couple of minutes ... then stuff the shooter in the aforementioned freezer bag (they are a bit thicker that a standard all purpose bag) and stuff the shooter back in and leave for an hour or so. That way the finish is not messed up from too much moisture, and the molding will (usually) reset. Mike

Edited September 10, 2011 by katsass

[mlapaglia]

And the winner is!!!!!!!!

Don't mold so closely to the little gaps in the accessory rail. I think if you look in from the muzzle end of the holster, you'll see some fiber tearing at that point. Dampen and smooth out those areas and see how it draws. The area of the trigger guard is large enough to be flexible, so it should give a bit. Molding the leather into those little gaps in the rail are what's giving you the probelems, IMO.

While there was no tearing on the inside the slots on the rail were the problem. I could hear them click as I inserted the gun. I dampened that area and did a little smoothing on the rail slots and BINGO it slides out like a dream but still holds well when upside down.

Katass, It must be the flash because there is no finish on the leather yet. All its seen so far is water. The shine could also be a result on the molding. Thanks for the suggestion on the washcloth. It let me smooth the rail slots without having to case the whole area.

Thanks to everyone else that volunteered advice, Lobo, Shooter McGavin and Big O. I appreciate it. Now to get this holster completed so I can post it and let you guys tell me what I still need to work on. HINT, I made more mistakes on this one than the first time but I did get rid of the angles that bothered everyone.

Edited September 10, 2011 by mlapaglia

[TwinOaks]

Now to get this holster completed so I can post it and let you guys tell me what I still need to work on.

From the pics, it looks like you need a little more room under/in front of the grip. But I didn't want to mention it because I could tell you were still working on the piece and had already considered that from the last time.

[mlapaglia]

From the pics, it looks like you need a little more room under/in front of the grip. But I didn't want to mention it because I could tell you were still working on the piece and had already considered that from the last time.

I got lucky on that part. I agree its still a little tight but I have fat fingers and I can draw the gun without the top of the holster getting in the way so its close but ok.