3" J-Frame Help

[beerbeer95648]

Just picked up a older 3" model 37 air-weight for my wife to carry. Having never made a holster for a revolver, I had a couple questions:

I am talking to her about cross-draw, and am wondering if it is best to have a neutral or raked cant?

I have noticed a few revolver specific holsters that come up a bit higher to cover the top of the cylinder. Is there a reason for that?

When it comes to measuring the thickness to determine the stitch lines, how does this differ from a semi-auto?

Also, I have had a hard time picturing how to install the welts for the rather tall front sight blade.

Is there any tips/tricks to making a holster for a female shape? I know that some women can have the gun dig in a bit, and my wife has a relatively short midsection with normal female hips.

I know I am asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.

Edited November 4, 2011 by beerbeer95648

[Haystacker]

Not sure how much help but I will try. The holsters pictured are pancake holsters. Basically the sight channel is built in with this design.

Most folks want as much cant on the cross draw as they can get. I recommend a hammer guard if your revolver has a hammer.

Making the stitch lines is about the same as an automatic. I do go a little closer around the trigger guard. One thing is if you go too big you can always run another stitch line and make it look like you meant too. If you add a lot of cant keep in mind the firing grip. Cross draw revolver holsters are a little more forgiving on the firing grip since the belt slot pulls into the body giving more clearance.

I don't have any pictures of the avenger style cross draw. The sight channel is easy enough to mold into the holster with this design, especially with revolvers. Just tape a dowel on the top of the barrel when you mold the holster.

I am not sure about women specific holsters. Still trying to figure that one out. I just made a paddle holster for a lady that does not like to wear belts. It is an avenger style with neutral cant and can be worn strong side, appendix or cross draw. (If it works, she will be testing it for me).

Let me know if you need anything else. I can send you a copy of my j frame holster pattern if you need it. Just send me an email to haysholsters@hotmail.com.

Good luck,

Jeff

[katsass]

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I have found that there is no 'standard' way to construct a women's holster, they all seem to be different from one another.I suppose one thing they do have in common is that a higher riding holster seems to work a little better than one that rides lower, anyhoo, this is my standard style of holster for a J-Frame Smith. This happens to be one of my personal carry guns and is a left hand strong side pouch. It is easilly modified to be a cross draw, high ride, right hand, drop style, etc. Mike

[steelhawk]

You are right about women. I've made 4 different holsters for my wife and she hates them all, but one of her friends just loved one of them and bought it. It fits her just great.

[beerbeer95648]

Thanks for the help guys. The gun is a hammer version. When you mention a hammer guard, are you referring to a thumb brake like in your pictures? If so,

do you recommend any snap in particular that will positively release easily? Is this only necessay on a crossdraw due

to the cant?

Edited November 5, 2011 by beerbeer95648

[Haystacker]

Hammer guard is just something to keep the hammer from digging into the wearer's body. Cross draw really makes this a problem. I thumb break would work in the same manner. The difference is a thumb break provides a level of retention, a hammer guard is just on an open top holster.

The thumb break is just preference. For folks that want to carry while doing activities like riding or hiking, they may like the retention of a thumb break. Some folks that carry concealed for self defense don't want the extra anything (thumb break) that may interfere or hinder that quick access to the firearm.

[katsass]

Thanks for the help guys. The gun is a hammer version. When you mention a hammer guard, are you referring to a thumb brake like in your pictures? If so,

do you recommend any snap in particular that will positively release easily? Is this only necessay on a crossdraw due

to the cant?

If you notice in the pics I submitted, (that's a model 36 in it) there is a piece of the leather that pokes up above where the hammer is on the shooter. I call it a shroud, but others call it a guard. It keeps the hammer from ripping hell out of the linings of jackets, the tails of shirts, etc. Also notice that there is no thumb break retention on this holster. Generally I don't include any retention straps on a concealed holster. Mike

Edited November 5, 2011 by katsass

[beerbeer95648]

Understood. I am trying to picture how you could a similar hammer shield with a pancake style. My wife wants the holster to sit as close to her body as possible.

[katsass]

An add-on piece after the front (barrel side) of the holster is stitched. Or, design the holster so that the front is deep enough to cover the hammer. Mike

P.S. FWIW..... Remember that wimin wear their belts around their waist ...... above their hips. Wimin's hips usually being wider than their waist (sometimes by quite a bit) can really cause problems when designing a holster ...... the muzzle end usually ends up on the gal's hip bone and the grips end up in her ribs. Tight against the body isn't always the best. It's possible that a cross-draw might work out best ..... the cant on the holster can sometimes get that shooter off of a woman's hip bone and keep the gun from digging into her ribs. Mike

Edited November 9, 2011 by katsass

[beerbeer95648]

Thanks Mike. I agree, I think crossdraw should work a little better for her. I think I will go the route you mentioned and make the pocket deep enough on that side to cover the hammer. I know it was addressed slightly above, I have only made 3 holsters so far and all have been for semi autos with relatively uniform thickness. I assume with a revolver I take measurement at both the cylinder and frame/barrel areas to determine my stitch lines? So my lines around the frame and barrel may be 1/2 inch while at the cylinder the lines may be more like 3/4 inch.

[katsass]

Thanks Mike. I agree, I think crossdraw should work a little better for her. I think I will go the route you mentioned and make the pocket deep enough on that side to cover the hammer. I know it was addressed slightly above, I have only made 3 holsters so far and all have been for semi autos with relatively uniform thickness. I assume with a revolver I take measurement at both the cylinder and frame/barrel areas to determine my stitch lines? So my lines around the frame and barrel may be 1/2 inch while at the cylinder the lines may be more like 3/4 inch.

Basically, for wheelguns I take 1/2 the diameter of the cylinder plus the thickness of the leather used. Since generally the revolver will seat in the holster on the front of the trigger guard and/or the front of the frame I make sure that those are the areas which I make sure fit well, but I don't take any actual measurement at the frame .... just the traced outline of the shooter in question which generally gives me just about what is needed. Sometimes it does take a bit of trial and error, but not too much.. From there on down the barrel all I do is work out something that looks esthetically balanced. Hope this helps. Mike

[beerbeer95648]

Thanks everyone. I plan on starting on a practice run using some Tandy 7/8oz today. I have some HO 8/9oz on the way for the final version. Hoping the 8/9oz is not to heavy for a 3" j-frame, but I needed the residual HO for my commander. Ill try and post when I am done. Thanks again.

KC

Edited November 11, 2011 by beerbeer95648