3" J-Frame Help

[katsass]

Thanks Mike. I agree, I think crossdraw should work a little better for her. I think I will go the route you mentioned and make the pocket deep enough on that side to cover the hammer. I know it was addressed slightly above, I have only made 3 holsters so far and all have been for semi autos with relatively uniform thickness. I assume with a revolver I take measurement at both the cylinder and frame/barrel areas to determine my stitch lines? So my lines around the frame and barrel may be 1/2 inch while at the cylinder the lines may be more like 3/4 inch.

Basically, for wheelguns I take 1/2 the diameter of the cylinder plus the thickness of the leather used. Since generally the revolver will seat in the holster on the front of the trigger guard and/or the front of the frame I make sure that those are the areas which I make sure fit well, but I don't take any actual measurement at the frame .... just the traced outline of the shooter in question which generally gives me just about what is needed. Sometimes it does take a bit of trial and error, but not too much.. From there on down the barrel all I do is work out something that looks esthetically balanced. Hope this helps. Mike

[beerbeer95648]

Thanks everyone. I plan on starting on a practice run using some Tandy 7/8oz today. I have some HO 8/9oz on the way for the final version. Hoping the 8/9oz is not to heavy for a 3" j-frame, but I needed the residual HO for my commander. Ill try and post when I am done. Thanks again.

KC

Edited November 11, 2011 by beerbeer95648