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Posted

I am looking at various inexpensive splitters. The handheld models are out because I will need to split more than just strands. The bulk of intended work will be strands, bellies and shotbags. I am drawn to the heritage splitter but dont see much need for the lap lever. What concerns me is roller adjustment on only one side. It seems to me that with wear it will not split evenly. I dont like the cheap tandy splitter but it has adjustment on both sides. Can anyone shed some light on these splitters for me? Thanks

Posted
  On 11/18/2011 at 10:16 PM, Joe M said:

I am looking at various inexpensive splitters. The handheld models are out because I will need to split more than just strands. The bulk of intended work will be strands, bellies and shotbags. I am drawn to the heritage splitter but dont see much need for the lap lever. What concerns me is roller adjustment on only one side. It seems to me that with wear it will not split evenly. I dont like the cheap tandy splitter but it has adjustment on both sides. Can anyone shed some light on these splitters for me? Thanks

I have the Heritage 6 inch. First, you need to hold the handle down while splitting. That leaves you with one hand to pull the leather. Second, after splitting five 3" X 40" pieces, the blade already needs to be stropped. If I wasn't broke, I would have thrown it into the river.

Posted
  On 11/19/2011 at 3:48 PM, reddevil76 said:

I have the Heritage 6 inch. First, you need to hold the handle down while splitting. That leaves you with one hand to pull the leather. Second, after splitting five 3" X 40" pieces, the blade already needs to be stropped. If I wasn't broke, I would have thrown it into the river.

I've got the Heritage 8 inch - same problem with the handle - like most Weaver equipment, it needs a little further engineering to work properly or well. The handle is supposed to screw down tight to hold a splitting thickness, but it doesn't screw all the way down (and they know this - I showed it to the owner at Sheridan 5 years ago - he said "Oh my goodness that's wrong...").

What you can do is drop a 1/4" bearing ball down into the handle hole. The when you screw the handle down, it will push the bearing ball against the rail, like an extension of the handle, and it will lock down so you don't have to hold the handle down while you pull leather through.

Hope this helps.

Julia McCormack

Life is unpredictable; eat dessert first.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks folks. @ Jam I was looking at the 6 " model and I dont see a way of locking anything down by twisting the handle. Could that be an option only on the 8" model?

edit: nevermind. I found a picture of a copy of the 8" osborne, I understand what you mean now.

Edited by Joe M
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Posted

A few more questions. The Osborne 84 and 86 splitters. The 84 seems better built and by the price I guess it is. The 86 has an adjustment that uses scissor bars to move the roller. Has anyone had issues with inaccuracy of the split from one side being higher than the other from a single adjustment point?

The 84 and the Campbell keystone appear to be competitively priced. How do they compare in performance? Thanks again.

  • 1 year later...
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Posted

I'm having the exact problem you have mentioned regarding an Osborne 86. One side is slightly higher than the other. I don't see how to correct the taper without shimming the blade. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Jeff C.

Posted

I have two # 86 (8 and 10 " versions) and 6 " Heritage splitter. I do have exactly the same problems too. I am looking toward a Campbell Randall (osb. 84) or a crank driven splitter. I believe the # 84 is a much better splitter than any of these. However, I never own any myself.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

I just called Osborne regarding the taper problem. It seems that a slight taper is common. The only way to adjust is to shim the blade with shim stock.

Jeff C.

Posted

Shims its a easy solution to above problem. It also is important to use all of the splitter blade, and not get a habit of using the same place every time.

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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