So Very Many Questions...

[stateless]

So I've been reading these forums for a few weeks, and I've bought and read a bunch of Al Stohlman books (sewing, case making, tools, etc) as well as Valerie's handbook.

All the books are very helpful, but seem to be very light on the "wisdom" side of things - the little things you learn along the way that transform your work from basic to excellent. So I have a bunch of questions, if anyone is able to chime in with an answer or two I'd greatly appreciate it.

1: Should I cut out leather with the flesh or grain side up, or doesn't it matter?

2: When cutting out, what is the best way to ensure multiple pieces fit neatly? Should I over size them and trim after stitching?

3: What is the normal sequence for the major steps? For example: cut out, dye, groove for stitching / crease, bevel edges, wet form (if required), cement, stitch, buff edges, polish.

4: Should dye daubers be soaked in dye, or just a light dab?

5: Do I use bag / tan kote before putting the article together, or after its all done?

6: A specific question about the adjustable Crafttool stitch groover - how to you join lines in the corners at sharp angles, around bag flaps for instance?

7: When using the edge beveller, should the leather be moistened or not?

That's about it. Sorry for the barrage, but I'd love to learn from the accumulated wisdom here, rather than making the same mistakes myself.

Thanks all!

[mlapaglia]

So I've been reading these forums for a few weeks, and I've bought and read a bunch of Al Stohlman books (sewing, case making, tools, etc) as well as Valerie's handbook.

All the books are very helpful, but seem to be very light on the "wisdom" side of things - the little things you learn along the way that transform your work from basic to excellent. So I have a bunch of questions, if anyone is able to chime in with an answer or two I'd greatly appreciate it.

1: Should I cut out leather with the flesh or grain side up, or doesn't it matter?

2: When cutting out, what is the best way to ensure multiple pieces fit neatly? Should I over size them and trim after stitching?

3: What is the normal sequence for the major steps? For example: cut out, dye, groove for stitching / crease, bevel edges, wet form (if required), cement, stitch, buff edges, polish.

4: Should dye daubers be soaked in dye, or just a light dab?

5: Do I use bag / tan kote before putting the article together, or after its all done?

6: A specific question about the adjustable Crafttool stitch groover - how to you join lines in the corners at sharp angles, around bag flaps for instance?

7: When using the edge beveller, should the leather be moistened or not?

That's about it. Sorry for the barrage, but I'd love to learn from the accumulated wisdom here, rather than making the same mistakes myself.

Thanks all!

Ok, the ones I know the answer to.

1: Should I cut out leather with the flesh or grain side up, or doesn't it matter?

I find I get a better cut and I dont scratch the grain by cutting with the grain up.

2: When cutting out, what is the best way to ensure multiple pieces fit neatly? Should I over size them and trim after stitching?

I cut about a 1/16th oversize and then trim and sand when I am ready to burnish the edges. You have to take the extra into account when you set your adjustable groover.

3: What is the normal sequence for the major steps? For example: cut out, dye, groove for stitching / crease, bevel edges, wet form (if required), cement, stitch, buff edges, polish. You will get 15 different version on this one.

A lot depends on what you are making.

4: Should dye daubers be soaked in dye, or just a light dab?

Are you dyeing a whole piece or touching up a little spot? see the difference?

6: A specific question about the adjustable Crafttool stitch groover - how to you join lines in the corners at sharp angles, around bag flaps for instance?

I stop before the corner start again at the other side adn then go back to the first groove and bring it to the start of the second groove. This way I do not over shoot.

7: When using the edge beveller, should the leather be moistened or not?

Moisten it. You get a much better and cleaner cut.

Those are the ones I know the answer to. Warning. There are at least 5 ways to do every step and most are correct. Find someone you trust and follow their suggestions. The other suggestions are probably correct also but why mix methods.

Michael

Edited December 20, 2011 by mlapaglia