Holster Pattern Help

[glockanator]

Would like some help/opinions on this design thanks

[TwinOaks]

What's it supposed to fit, and is that long tab at the top going to be a retention strap?

[katsass]

Would like some help/opinions on this design thanks

FWIW from the old grump; First off, to me (and I just may be getting old) something just doesn't look quite right with the outline of the gun -- in the trigger guard area, but I 'spect that that's a design for a pancake holster for a wheelgun of some kind. Not being able to tell what shooter that's supposed to be for, all I can say for sure is that it'll be way too tight around the cylinder and frame area to fit the gun, and most likely, around the front sight area will also be a problem as well as being a bit too short at the muzzle --- IF that outer line is supposed to be the stitch line.. The retention strap (if that's what that long thing is) is on the wrong (front) piece of the holster, and needs to (most likely) be set forward a bit to fit behind the hammer.. Also, if those are marks for belt slots, I'd move them in a bit, and put a bit more leather between them and the toe of the thing. Now that's all just a guess or two from having made a few pancake holsters for some wheelguns over the years, and JMHO is, that as it stands, it ain't gonna work. Mike

Edited January 1, 2012 by katsass

[glockanator]

Sorry should have mentioned its for a Luger.

[TwinOaks]

OH! Well, that certainly makes a difference!

Ok, for the section that's at the top of the gun, you've closely followed the details of the profile. Because of the difference in height of the front sight and the rest of the body, you'll need to basically draw a line from the highest point at the toggle to the front sight.....working with the current tracing lines, not the physical gun. That line is going to be your new stitch line and you won't worry about following the lines of the top of the gun.

Your strap will probably need to be "fitted" once everything else is done, so leave it a bit long - you can always cut it down to size.

For the belt loops, the one on the left side is too close to the grip. You can either move it down, or back. Moving it back means building the holster so that the side closest to the body is flat (mostly), and all the molding is on the outer piece. That makes the molding more difficult and the stitch lines more critical, so you might want to just move the loops down. If you aren't too far along, you might consider an Avenger style holster (clamshell) as it would allow for a bit more room around the grip.

[glockanator]

Thanks! I haven't started yet. I tried talking him into an avenger style but he really wants a pancake holster.

[katsass]

Sorry should have mentioned its for a Luger.

Ditto as to what Twin Oaks said --- but it initially really looked like a rig for a wheelgun. Mike

[buzzkiller]

Twin covered just about anything that could be touched on. I would just add the possible option of a slight forward cant to open up some space between the grip and belt loop. Those style pistols are tricky for me, that thin chamber and grip angle present special problems. If you lower loops too much, it becomes a bit too much "high ride" , if you cant it forward very much it seems exaggerated by the length of the barrel.

I would love to see the finished product.

[malabar]

Sorry should have mentioned its for a Luger.

Did you ever finish this? I think it would present some unique issues. For one, you would need a substantial sight track to keep the holster from locking up on the front sight. Second, the only real grip you're going to get on the gun is on that two-inch section of receiver around the trigger guard. Considering how much of the weight of the luger is at the back end, I would think that would make retention challenging (so I'd like to see how yours turns out).

BTW: They're beautifully engineered guns, but lugers are terrible for real defensive purposes -- poor trigger, poor sights, very sensitive to ammo.

tk