Frustrated and pulling hair out

[whinewine]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=2937&hl=

Here is a thread i started a while back.... this is leather from the same hide.

I didnt get pix of it, but it is pretty much the same thing, except it came off in sheets on the older one....

Thing about using pecards or leather balm is you cant use it over antique or it will moisten the dried paste and ruin everything. Other wist I would use it.... So I am left with having to find something or some way to get a finish over the antique paste.

The way I applied this paste was to use woolskin in a small area, and a cloth to wipe it down once it was rubbed in real well, then move to a new area. Once it was completely covered with antique, i went back over it with a cloth kind of buffing it to get any excess off. I allowed to dry and sprayed it with leather sheen the next day.

So Keith, you are suggesting the following:

1. Strip the finish using Acetone.

2. Strip the antique with mineral spirits.

3. Wash and rinse thoroughly with soap and water after stripping.

4. Wash with oxalic acid.

5. Oil the leather, apply a light coat and let set for at least 8 hours to allow the oil to wick deep into the fibers and not be left on the surface.

6. If you are using a paste antique, it will apply more evenly if mixed with the leather sheen. I prefer Neat-lac or tan-kote for this. If you don't mix the paste antique, thin it a little with mineral spirits.

7. Buff off the excess fairly quickly.

8. Apply the lacquer finish by hand with a woolskin. Using extra lacquer will help to smooth the antique further. Work the lacquer into the leather like oil, not just a thick coat on the surface to dry. This will crack and peel and look like a plastic finish.

Ok, questions: Where do I find oxalic acid? I havent tried mixing antique with anything before, so what is the ratio you are talking? And what would you use to apply the cut antique to the leather with? Now you say to finish it off with a lacquer finish like neat lac but wont Neat Lac just crack on me when I sit on it? I have used Neat Lac but have not had good luck with it wicking into the leather, it sits on top of the antique whenever i have used it....

Wolve:

a] oxalic acid is sold as a dry powder labeled as wood bleach at various lumber/hardware stores (just read the label to make doubly sure).

b] If I'm not mistaken, I don't believe neatlac is compatible with antique, neither with the newer fiebings (garbage, IMO) shoe polish-type antiques, nor the older fiebings turpentine-based antiques.

c] I do not have a clue whether or not the water-based eco-flo antiques are compatible with neatlac. I haven't used them.

d] Fiebings tan-kote is mixable with fiebing's antiques (at least, the newer, shoe polish antiques), in a ratio of, I believe, 20% tan-kote, 80% antique. (But then, it's NOT waterproof... nor is the straight antique waterproof, either. It says so right on the label.)

I hope this helps a little.

russ