malabar Report post Posted January 4, 2012 Folks, I'm searching for the best way to color my holsters, and it's been frustrating. I've made dozens with vinegaroon, but the results tend to be inconsistent, depending on the batch of leather. I've ended up redyeing some of them to get decent results. But it's the lighter colors that are more of a problem. I've been working with Fiebings Alcohol dyes. Daubing gives me very inconsistent results. Spraying can give nice results, but it's time consuming, uses a lot of dye, and produces a surface that is not very durable. I tried dipping, but the colors were way too dark. So I cut it heavily with alcohol. That gave me a better color, but the leather became stiff as a board. And penetration is still not good. Is buying drum-dyed the best answer? On another thread US Gunleather said he daubs his holsters with Angelus dyes. The consistency of the finish is fabulous. Is the Angelus dye that much better? Appreciate any insight y'all can offer. tk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted January 4, 2012 Folks, I'm searching for the best way to color my holsters, and it's been frustrating. I've made dozens with vinegaroon, but the results tend to be inconsistent, depending on the batch of leather. I've ended up redyeing some of them to get decent results. But it's the lighter colors that are more of a problem. I've been working with Fiebings Alcohol dyes. Daubing gives me very inconsistent results. Spraying can give nice results, but it's time consuming, uses a lot of dye, and produces a surface that is not very durable. I tried dipping, but the colors were way too dark. So I cut it heavily with alcohol. That gave me a better color, but the leather became stiff as a board. And penetration is still not good. Is buying drum-dyed the best answer? On another thread US Gunleather said he daubs his holsters with Angelus dyes. The consistency of the finish is fabulous. Is the Angelus dye that much better? Appreciate any insight y'all can offer. tk FWIW from the old grump; I use Fiebing's pro oil dyes mostly, applied with a very cheap airbrush. I dilute the dye 50/50 with denatured alcohol. True, there is overspray, but to me it's negligible. Just a few passes and I have an even color --- or I can easily work it to produce highlights or a 'sunburst' or 'faded' effect. A couple of examples. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malabar Report post Posted January 4, 2012 That's nice work, Mike! Any tips on setting up the airbrush? How far do you hold the airbrush from your holster when spraying? tk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) That's nice work, Mike! Any tips on setting up the airbrush? How far do you hold the airbrush from your holster when spraying? tk OK, as I said I use a real cheap airbrush --- very limit6ed adjustability, (Harbor Freight's 'quick change' type @ around $6.00 or $7.00) and adjust for a good smooth flow.Generally I stay about a foot or a little more away from the project being shot. Also, I spray all parts prior to assembly, allow to dry, then shoot a light coat of neatsfoot oil and allow another 24 hours prior to doing anything else, such as gluing and stitching. I apply a finish after wet molding. Mike P.S. I purchase ALL of my supplies ONLY from Springfield Leather. I call, then and generally discuss any special problems I may have and they seem to have all the answers and/or solutions. Edited January 5, 2012 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malabar Report post Posted January 5, 2012 OK, as I said I use a real cheap airbrush --- very limit6ed adjustability, (Harbor Freight's 'quick change' type @ around $6.00 or $7.00) and adjust for a good smooth flow.Generally I stay about a foot or a little more away from the project being shot. Also, I spray all parts prior to assembly, allow to dry, then shoot a light coat of neatsfoot oil and allow another 24 hours prior to doing anything else, such as gluing and stitching. I apply a finish after wet molding. Mike P.S. I purchase ALL of my supplies ONLY from Springfield Leather. I call, then and generally discuss any special problems I may have and they seem to have all the answers and/or solutions. The folks at springfield are tops. I order from them whenever I can. I needed some kydex in 36"-inch lengths and they were happy to cut it for me. One thing I'm real curious about: When I dipped my pieces they got REAL stiff -- like wood. And when I bent one of them, It looked like the smooth grain surface was wrinkling and separating. I cut the dye 50% with rubbing alcohol and I'm assuming that dried out the leather -- but I thought that was a common technique. And it was literally just a quick dip. I'm finishing out the holster just as an experiment. I've got long experience as a woodworker, but finishing food seems far easier -- at least far more predictable -- than finishing leather. thanks for the help. tk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted January 5, 2012 The folks at springfield are tops. I order from them whenever I can. I needed some kydex in 36"-inch lengths and they were happy to cut it for me. One thing I'm real curious about: When I dipped my pieces they got REAL stiff -- like wood. And when I bent one of them, It looked like the smooth grain surface was wrinkling and separating. I cut the dye 50% with rubbing alcohol and I'm assuming that dried out the leather -- but I thought that was a common technique. And it was literally just a quick dip. I'm finishing out the holster just as an experiment. I've got long experience as a woodworker, but finishing food seems far easier -- at least far more predictable -- than finishing leather. thanks for the help. tk Rubbing alcohol isn't good for diluting dye --- denatured alcohol is the stuff to use. On a (seldom) occasion I'll use rubbing alcohol to finish mold a holster, but only in an emergency. It'll set the leather --- hard, and you need to add more than a normal amount of neatsfoot oil after. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marine mp Report post Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) malabar, If you don't want to go w/the airbrush route, you might try what I do. I. like Mike, am a one man shop, that way my quality control is on my shoulders. I use Fiebings dye and a 10 cent dauber. Not because I'm cheap, just thats the way I learned and I'm to stubborn to change. I lightly neatsfoot the leather, and immediately dye it. It usually come out even and symetrical. Try it on a piece of scrap. One day I may go with the airbrush, but the dauber method, for me. is fine. I just can't highlight or do the fancier work that requires a airbrush. Semper-fi Mike Edited January 5, 2012 by marine mp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malabar Report post Posted January 5, 2012 Rubbing alcohol isn't good for diluting dye --- denatured alcohol is the stuff to use. On a (seldom) occasion I'll use rubbing alcohol to finish mold a holster, but only in an emergency. It'll set the leather --- hard, and you need to add more than a normal amount of neatsfoot oil after. Mike what a BONEHEAD. I used isopropyl alcohol instead of methanol. Well at least I now know how to stiffen up leather <g> THANKS! tk malabar, If you don't want to go w/the airbrush route, you might try what I do. I. like Mike, am a one man shop, that way my quality control is on my shoulders. I use Fiebings dye and a 10 cent dauber. Not because I'm cheap, just thats the way I learned and I'm to stubborn to change. I lightly neatsfoot the leather, and immediately dye it. It usually come out even and symetrical. Try it on a piece of scrap. One day I may go with the airbrush, but the dauber method, for me. is fine. I just can't highlight or do the fancier work that requires a airbrush. Semper-fi Mike I'm definitely going to g back and try that again. many thanks tk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
