Beeswax-Oil Mix

[ChuckBurrows]

Recent google searching has told me the following. That almost all oils oxidize to different amounts depending on the size of the molecular chain and if it is a saturated or poly-unsaturated oil. Heat also plays a large part in it, but there is not much that can be done about that since we are dealing with a hydro-carbon based molecule and if heat isnt used in the processing of the oil it is used for pasteurizing food oils.

With all due respect, but not all food grade oils are pasteurized. Good quality EVOO is not and neither is Flaxseed oil as a couple of examples, that is why I noted to use EVOO rather than the cheaper stuff. EVOO BTW is mostly a monounsaturated fat.

Another oil you may look into is real mink oil, since it has has a greater resistance to becoming rancid than most other oils whether animal or vegetable. For mink oil, Montana Pitchblend is an excellent choice,

As for oils that stay in the leather rather than evaporating off - Lexol's products have been specifically formulated for that and that's why I use it almost exclusively on my more modern gear. On my historical gear I use my own dubbin, just because I try to keep all materials as original as possible - a selling point for many of my customers who can be a bit anal at times over such things....

While I can understand trying to be thrifty, sometimes we're just re-inventing the wheel so to speak and many times we wind up spending more than if we just bought the pre-made goods I been ther and done that LOL!

[Sovran81]

With all due respect, but not all food grade oils are pasteurized. Good quality EVOO is not and neither is Flaxseed oil as a couple of examples, that is why I noted to use EVOO rather than the cheaper stuff. EVOO BTW is mostly a monounsaturated fat.

Another oil you may look into is real mink oil, since it has has a greater resistance to becoming rancid than most other oils whether animal or vegetable. For mink oil, Montana Pitchblend is an excellent choice,

As for oils that stay in the leather rather than evaporating off - Lexol's products have been specifically formulated for that and that's why I use it almost exclusively on my more modern gear. On my historical gear I use my own dubbin, just because I try to keep all materials as original as possible - a selling point for many of my customers who can be a bit anal at times over such things....

While I can understand trying to be thrifty, sometimes we're just re-inventing the wheel so to speak and many times we wind up spending more than if we just bought the pre-made goods I been ther and done that LOL!

Hi Chuck, I really value the input that more experienced craftsman give because most have been there and done that. If I could copy the formula of the better known commercial dressings I would. My being thrifty stems from as a plaiter the dressing is used as a lubricant between the layers of braid and I can easily use about 2-4 cups for 1 small project. Finding these commercial dressings in large quantity at prices that doesnt break the bank (especially without a resell license) hasnt been possible. The ingredients on the other hand are much cheaper and I have time, a stove and a mixer.

It was my understanding that all processed foodstuffs available in the US had to be either pasteurized or irradiated to make them safe from food poisoning. Even bottled water is treated with ozone.

I have never even thought of flaxseed oil. Would you be willing to share your recipe for your own "dubbin"? Please feel free to shoot down any ideas I post that you have knowledge with. It will save me a failure.

Thanks