lightningad Report post Posted February 2, 2012 I understand the reasoning behind waxing linen threads, but having bought myself some Artificial Sinew, i wonder if there are any advantages to be had from waxing this stuff? Also, can some explain the numbering system used on waxed linen threads. Does it denote number of ply and thickness of thread? How do you know which size to buy for using on leather projects? (I even tried looking on Barbours (Coates) website but couldnt find an explanation). thanks Adam (a puzzled newbie) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celticleather Report post Posted February 3, 2012 There's an explanation of the British system of thread sizes at http://www.bowstock....alog/Linen.html, which may or may not be useful! I use 18/3 for most of my work . . . belts, bags, pouches etc, but I'll occasionally use 25/3 for lightweight leathers. Can't help with the pros and cons of waxing artificial sinew . . . I've never used it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lightningad Report post Posted February 3, 2012 There's an explanation of the British system of thread sizes at http://www.bowstock....alog/Linen.html, which may or may not be useful! I use 18/3 for most of my work . . . belts, bags, pouches etc, but I'll occasionally use 25/3 for lightweight leathers. Perfect - just what i needed to know. thanks. Adam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thecapgunkid Report post Posted February 5, 2012 The only thing really holding artificial sinew together is the wax...separate some and you'll get the idea. If you gotta you gotta, so use off the shelf beeswax because it is the same or really similar to what is on there in the first place. The only time I ever waxed it was when I had broken it down into three or four thinner threads when I was beading. Inasmuch as I cannot stand beading, I don't much wax sinew any more. Another use is if you are trying to tapedr the end of the sinew to thread your needle without that bulge at the eye. A little beeswax on the end will help keep the threading together if you are using the common method of poking the needle through the thread, sticking the end through the eye and pulling the thread back over the needle. Hope this helps. PS...is there some acronym or symbol for ..."hope this helps"... like LOL or :-) or something? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lightningad Report post Posted February 6, 2012 PS...is there some acronym or symbol for ..."hope this helps"... like LOL or :-) or something? I do hope not - i hate all that textspeak nonsense - just makes the user look like an idiot. Thanks for the advice. I had used the sinew but it just didnt feel waxed at all, nothing like the waxed thread i had used on an earlier project. I bought some linen thread this weekend and tried beeswaxing it...next time i'll buy ready waxed stuff...what a pain! adam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chavez Report post Posted February 6, 2012 Hi! I've got myself some 18/3 and found it too thin (good for small projects but I'd prefer a thicker thread for general use). Ordered 18/4 - lets see what its like. I've been advised to mix beeswax with pine pitch 60-40. I mixed pure beeswax with violin rosin and it turned out great for waxing thread. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites