hazymat Report post Posted May 21, 2012 Hi I'm sure this is a common problem, but I'm trying to construct corners at the bottom of a bag that look like this: I prototyped the corner using much thinner leather that I will use for the bag, to look like this: But it's quite messy. Then I cut rectangles out of the side and bottom piece like this: Which gives the following look: If you imagine adding the front and back pieces of the bag to the above photo, you would then stitch through three layers on each side at the very corners. Problem is, I think this looks quite messy still. I really want the bottom corners to look like this (check out the second image which shows side view): http://www.saddlebackleather.com/Classic-Briefcase-Thin?sc=8&category=83 However I'm not sure the leather I am using will bend quite as easily as the one shown on Saddleback's site. I'm finding it pretty hard to visualise. Is there a foolproof way of getting nice corners? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kustom Report post Posted May 21, 2012 If you're trying to make a three piece gusset the piece in the center for the bottom needs to have the notches cut out of the sides. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scary Leatherworks Report post Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) . I really want the bottom corners to look like this (check out the second image which shows side view): http://www.saddlebac...c=8&category=83 [/quote The corners of that bag are not constructed as you are trying. a 2 gusset bag is a front, back and a middle with 2 long gussets that go across the sides and down the bottom. That bag in your avatar, which I assume you made looks much the same. I use 5oz leather and it works fine. pic of front gusset being attached to bag side view of the same bag done Edited May 21, 2012 by Scary Leatherworks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hazymat Report post Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) The corners of that bag are not constructed as you are trying. a 2 gusset bag is a front, back and a middle with 2 long gussets that go across the sides and down the bottom. That bag in your avatar, which I assume you made looks much the same. I use 5oz leather and it works fine. Thanks for that. (The bag that was in my avatar was in fact not mine, it was something I was looking at on this forum last night by another user, I must have accidentally set it as my profile picture! I removed it now...) I'm using 8oz cowhide shoulder to make a rugged bag, however I want the bag to be quite thin (each gusset would be 4cm wide, and would have a curved cross section to pull the compartment size in to more like 3cm or less). I was thinking of wet forming the cross section of the gusset as it's quite thick leather and otherwise it might not stay with the curved cross section. I've never done anything like this before so I may be way off! I initially thought each gusset would have to be in 3 pieces (two sides and a bottom) due to the fact that I'd never get 8oz thickness leather around a bend. (Of course, the leather goes around the bend fine, but not when the gusset is also curved lengthways.) Am I mad for trying to make this design from such thick leather? Hope the above makes sense. I'm a complete novice when it comes to all aspects of leather, let alone sewing - I'm learning as I go. Edited May 21, 2012 by hazymat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scary Leatherworks Report post Posted May 21, 2012 Thanks for that. I'm using 8oz cowhide shoulder to make a rugged bag, however I want the bag to be quite thin Am I mad for trying to make this design from such thick leather? Hope the above makes sense. I'm a complete novice when it comes to all aspects of leather, let alone sewing - I'm learning as I go. Yes, you may be mad for trying it wet forming might do the trick. the Gussets being only 4cm and 8oz may be overkill though. When you have to stitch the center (middle separator and 2 gussets) it's going to be 24oz thick. you could probably use much thinner material for the gussets but I also understand how it is when you get an idea and you want to MAKE it work. Make the bends on each side of your gusset a bit wider than you want them to end up partly because you lose some around the corners. Also with an 8oz gusset it and only 4cm wide it won't want to "accordion" in but then you were only hoping to gain a cm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kustom Report post Posted May 21, 2012 This book will show you how to make a three piece gusset. http://www.amazon.com/The-Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook/dp/0304345113 Thanks for that. (The bag that was in my avatar was in fact not mine, it was something I was looking at on this forum last night by another user, I must have accidentally set it as my profile picture! I removed it now...) I'm using 8oz cowhide shoulder to make a rugged bag, however I want the bag to be quite thin (each gusset would be 4cm wide, and would have a curved cross section to pull the compartment size in to more like 3cm or less). I was thinking of wet forming the cross section of the gusset as it's quite thick leather and otherwise it might not stay with the curved cross section. I've never done anything like this before so I may be way off! I initially thought each gusset would have to be in 3 pieces (two sides and a bottom) due to the fact that I'd never get 8oz thickness leather around a bend. (Of course, the leather goes around the bend fine, but not when the gusset is also curved lengthways.) Am I mad for trying to make this design from such thick leather? Hope the above makes sense. I'm a complete novice when it comes to all aspects of leather, let alone sewing - I'm learning as I go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hazymat Report post Posted May 21, 2012 This book will show you how to make a three piece gusset. http://www.amazon.co...k/dp/0304345113 Thanks! Just bought it on Amazon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kustom Report post Posted May 21, 2012 Great! You'll be happy you did. There's so much info in there. You're in the UK. If I was over there I would take some of her classes. Thanks! Just bought it on Amazon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites